Kibbels
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Use pind board inserts … done And done… don’t look back
New project SW
- Thread starter Turblue
- Start date
Kibbels
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EMX Billet Running Board Inserts - Ascender/Alpha
FULLY STOCKED IN ALL COLORS! HEEL TO TOE, THE BEST BOARD FOR YOUR FEET (AND WALLET) -- EMX ASCENDER HEEL TO TOE, THE BEST BOARD FOR YOUR FEET (AND WALLET) Everything starts with stance. When your feet are solid, your riding is solid. Precision Milled - Made from billet aluminum, these running...
www.pindperformance.com
Kibbels
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Don’t waste yur money on boards
Lunch_Box
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Ill be building a new oil tank this off season. Try and save some weight but also build something better suited to fit the space.
Lund
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For my boots also the CR boards have worked the best, tough as ever and incredible footing for technical riding with a heavy sled. Its takin years for the OE to figure that their boards suck, especially Cat. While we have been using superior boards for over 10yrs improving any chassis in its stock form making it even better then the current OE models.Couple company's now have made inserts that seem to work alright, myself I went with CR racing boards, but I also run a size 14 boot..
EMX Billet Running Board Inserts - ProClimb/ProCross (Also fits Polaris EVO)
Fits all Arctic Cat ProClimb/ProCross Snowmobiles and Polaris EVO/Indy Snowmobiles TOE TO HEEL, THE BEST BOARD FOR YOUR FEET (AND WALLET) -- EMX ASCENDER TOE TO HEEL, THE BEST BOARD FOR YOUR FEET (AND WALLET) Everything starts with stance. When your feet are solid, your riding is solid...
Lund
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Was thinking the same, looking into installing it between the engine and the bulkhead, there is room for it.
Not the OE tank but a custom built tank.
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- #47
Turblue
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Would an apex or nytro tank work? Apex is small.
- Thread starter
- #48
Turblue
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So it’s baffled and that tube is a drain for the top and for roll over? I never looked inside.
Lund
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The current tank are way better, those other tanks are known to crack and in a roll over leak.
Its not the tank the real issue, as every sled on the market needs an oil tank...haha even them 2smokers.
Its the location, far out on the right, it needs to be centralized imo.
Its not the tank the real issue, as every sled on the market needs an oil tank...haha even them 2smokers.
Its the location, far out on the right, it needs to be centralized imo.
Pistonbroke
Active VIP Member
EMX Billet Running Board Inserts - Ascender/Alpha
FULLY STOCKED IN ALL COLORS! HEEL TO TOE, THE BEST BOARD FOR YOUR FEET (AND WALLET) -- EMX ASCENDER HEEL TO TOE, THE BEST BOARD FOR YOUR FEET (AND WALLET) Everything starts with stance. When your feet are solid, your riding is solid. Precision Milled - Made from billet aluminum, these running...
Thanks man - summer upgrade to my ‘Winder coming up!
Lunch_Box
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Ya lots of room under there. I was going to keep it on the side for ease of oil changes, but I like your idea better. Joys of dry sump, can put it pretty much anywhere.
- Thread starter
- #52
Turblue
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Ah screw it im in on the belt drive. Lol. Make it easier for me when I modify my handlebar controls. No reverse button to deal with. Ha. I guess I’ll have to grease my front door trailer hinges now. 
MK4TDI
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I'm just about ready to go with one aswell, I'm on my 4th actuator, and its starting to act up again.Ah screw it im in on the belt drive. Lol. Make it easier for me when I modify my handlebar controls. No reverse button to deal with. Ha. I guess I’ll have to grease my front door trailer hinges now.
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- #54
Turblue
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Yeah that sucks. That’s kinda why I don’t want to deal with that or any chaincase issues.
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Ah screw it im in on the belt drive. Lol. Make it easier for me when I modify my handlebar controls. No reverse button to deal with. Ha. I guess I’ll have to grease my front door trailer hinges now.
If you are looking for some ideas, I zero controls on my handle bars. Machined 2 pieces of aluminum to fit between the risers and mounted the kill switch and push button start there. Tucked out of the way and handle bars nice and clean.
Last edited:
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- #56
Turblue
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Cool..post a picture of what you have done.
So although mine looks like a 19 it’s actually a 18(built for release in 18) so it’s got the 18 controls it. I already added the 19 brake lever. I have the 19 throttle also but the warmer is different so thinking of installing a 18 warmer pad on it. I was going to check the resistance and see how much different they are…as the control is different 18 to 19.
I haven’t decided yet how I’m going to move things. I typically use Polaris switches down low and a skidoo rer/dimmer for push start and dimmer.
Definitely going cleaner this time.
So although mine looks like a 19 it’s actually a 18(built for release in 18) so it’s got the 18 controls it. I already added the 19 brake lever. I have the 19 throttle also but the warmer is different so thinking of installing a 18 warmer pad on it. I was going to check the resistance and see how much different they are…as the control is different 18 to 19.
I haven’t decided yet how I’m going to move things. I typically use Polaris switches down low and a skidoo rer/dimmer for push start and dimmer.
Definitely going cleaner this time.
Lunch_Box
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Lund
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Just finished 2 days of ripping up Renshaw and the belt drive keeps that 3” 174 pulling stupid.Ah screw it im in on the belt drive. Lol. Make it easier for me when I modify my handlebar controls. No reverse button to deal with. Ha. I guess I’ll have to grease my front door trailer hinges now.
You won’t regret the choice of loosing reverse.
Lund
Active VIP Member
The reverse actuator cure is this, take it apart and spray it’s internals with this and you will never have a problem again.
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Turblue
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Well if anyone is wondering if a 2019 brake and throttle will work on a 18 or older. The answer is yes. Brake is pretty much bolt on with same electrical connector.
The throttle the warmer element is different. All I did there was removed the old element and installed the element from the 18 throttle lever. I used a dremel to shape the backing insulator and clipped the wings off the element. Trying grip glue to hold it in place but probably should use high temp rtv
The throttle switch would need a different connector but I typically have that unhooked anyway.
I’ll be adding the 19 kill switch and Polaris switches for the warmer controls and light dimmer.
Push button start probably a Munster switch but not sure yet.
The throttle the warmer element is different. All I did there was removed the old element and installed the element from the 18 throttle lever. I used a dremel to shape the backing insulator and clipped the wings off the element. Trying grip glue to hold it in place but probably should use high temp rtv
The throttle switch would need a different connector but I typically have that unhooked anyway.
I’ll be adding the 19 kill switch and Polaris switches for the warmer controls and light dimmer.
Push button start probably a Munster switch but not sure yet.
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