- Thread starter
- #41
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Yes. Just so the boards don't float
Epoxy River Projects
- Thread starter Lightningmike
- Start date
What’s the process and difficulty with swirling in the white? I’m looking to do that with a nice blue for my hot tub bar slab?
I did go for a visit with my new buddy Joe @ spirit wood designs in Edmonton today. He had been busy and had 3 River tables on the go. They look mint! Ocean bottom look. A thinner pour of a teal for a base layer then artistically texture sand, bark scraps, and rocks in the void. Then pours with clear to fill up to level.
I didn’t take pictures. Just soaked In
The tips. I helped him hang a new sign with my bucket truck and grab a batch of epoxies to start experimenting.
I didn’t take pictures. Just soaked In
The tips. I helped him hang a new sign with my bucket truck and grab a batch of epoxies to start experimenting.
- Thread starter
- #44
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
That is just the metalic green I got. Have to find the right consistency to stir so it doesn't settle out again. I stirred this morning and again at about 5pm. Going out again just before midnight to check. Will report bavk
- Thread starter
- #45
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Nice. Wanting to try a staggered pour like that with items in it. Sounds like Joe is a good guy to know. Lol
- Thread starter
- #46
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
So I swirled the epoxy at midnight last night which was about 18 hours after I poured it. I checked it this morning... about 24 hours after the pour and the swirls had mostly faded.
I was able to stir again and get the swirls back. The consistency was like a heavy syrup. Tonight the pattern was still there and it was set up quite a bit more.
Seems like about the 24 hour mark is the time to stir it with this brand anyway.
Just my 2 cents. Definately a learning curve.
Whoo. Longer than I would have thought! That’s a sharp tip for my projects
. Maybe skip 22 1/2 hours of anticipation. But I guess they do call normal double syringe 
tube 24h epoxy!I’m just edjumacationating 
myself at this point and have zero credibility.
But a summery of my new buddy Joe’s hot tip of yesterday was to use just normal 5 min epoxy out of the syringe to fill your minor cracks ect. Said it’s the wood workers dream. Ready to sand in 30 min. buy it at the dollar store for $1.50 instead of $10 at the hardware store. Joe says the cheep spunk is the bestest spunk!.
myself at this point and have zero credibility. But a summery of my new buddy Joe’s hot tip of yesterday was to use just normal 5 min epoxy out of the syringe to fill your minor cracks ect. Said it’s the wood workers dream. Ready to sand in 30 min. buy it at the dollar store for $1.50 instead of $10 at the hardware store. Joe says the cheep spunk is the bestest spunk!.
- Thread starter
- #49
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
I did try some of that on one piece that had some cracks. I think it was a little longer curing stuff and definitely paid more than buck fitty.I’m just edjumacationating
But a summery of my new buddy Joe’s hot tip of yesterday was to use just normal 5 min epoxy out of the syringe to fill your minor cracks ect. Said it’s the wood workers dream. Ready to sand in 30 min. buy it at the dollar store for $1.50 instead of $10 at the hardware store. Joe says the cheep spunk is the bestest spunk!.
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210225/aedc39075ea26a0b330c024ab081d621.jpg
Thanks for the tip! I will be checking out dollar store.
- Thread starter
- #50
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Couple charcuterie boards I finished today.
ferniesnow
I'm doo-ing it!
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2008
- Messages
- 108,772
- Reaction score
- 83,080
- Location
- beautiful, downtown Salmon Arm, BC
Looks awesome
- Thread starter
- #52
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Finished a 2' x 4' coffee table. Another learning curve but turned out not bad.
snopro
Active VIP Member
Very nice Mike!
- Thread starter
- #54
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Thanks
- Admin
- #55
All these look awesome! I need to get my garage organized I want to try making some of these!
Ok gurus need your help. Trying to finish a table project. Wood is pine. When the slabs were planed they chipped a bit near the knots. Messing around with a few uv resistant epoxies but they tend to soak into the pores and then bleed around the spot. This will make it impossible to match the top coat. What would you use to fill these spots that don’t discolor it.
- Thread starter
- #57
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
I used a clear epoxy glue like mentioned above. Just took on the color of the wood below it.
Left it 24 hours before sanding
- Thread starter
- #58
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
Just wrapped up a couple more boards. Didn't think I would like the red but it's not too bad.
It's fire truck red Ray.
It's fire truck red Ray.
- Thread starter
- #59
Lightningmike
Active VIP Member
How did you make out with this TDR ?Ok gurus need your help. Trying to finish a table project. Wood is pine. When the slabs were planed they chipped a bit near the knots. Messing around with a few uv resistant epoxies but they tend to soak into the pores and then bleed around the spot. This will make it impossible to match the top coat. What would you use to fill these spots that don’t discolor it.
Teth-Air
Active VIP Member
For anyone playing with epoxy you might like to know that Norwesco sells silicon sheet material. (like a soft gasket material) The stuff we use for epoxy filling our Phantom Teth-Airs is textured but they likely have smooth stuff too. When you use it as a backing to pour epoxy it will release quite nicely. We also spray the silicon sheet material with silicon water proofing spray before use, as repeated pours seems to leach the sheet material. Our epoxy is a 2 part clear, electronic grade that resists expansion and contraction due to temperature swings.
Similar threads
