I would encourage anyone with the issue to call multiple places who fix them and also research online. You're paying about $2200 for actuator replacement compared to $4000 for turbo replacement with also includes oil change. Turbo guaranteed to fix problem, maybe not needed. Actuator might be $2200 down the drain to fix it for a few months.
2015 Ram 6.7 Cummins turbo
- Thread starter Turblue
- Start date
I would encourage anyone with the issue to call multiple places who fix them and also research online. You're paying about $2200 for actuator replacement compared to $4000 for turbo replacement with also includes oil change. Turbo guaranteed to fix problem, maybe not needed. Actuator might be $2200 down the drain to fix it for a few months.
JayT
Active VIP Member
My actuator went on my 15 at 100,050k. Dealer still did it under warranty even though 50km over, just replaced the actuator and my turbo's been fine. Deleted everything the day after it came back from dealer and put 45,000 km on since then with no issues at all
bendy
Active VIP Member
Not if you buy the actuator for $712.50. If I was closer… I’d sell him the actuator for $550 and calibrate it for free just ‘cause he’s my S&M brethren. All he’d have to do is the grunt work while I watched and drank a Bud Zero! He can do what he thinks is best. I gave him my personal and professional opinion as I am a Chrysler Master Tech. I’ve been doing this stuff consistently since the inception of the 6.7L.
bendy
Active VIP Member
Yes, I suggest an EFI Live 40hp tow/haul tune if deleted. The exhaust brake defaults on when engine is started. It hits like a freight train and works way harder and more consistently. In my experience, the more the exhaust brake works and the harder it works, the longer the whole package lasts. Prime example, one of my customers has over 900,000km on his 2010 2500. Original turbo. Deleted at 100k.
bendy
Active VIP Member
As for percentages of actuators to turbo R&R’s… I can certainly recall six customers by name we’ve done actuators on their units at the shop and only two that we’ve done turbos on in the last 12 months.
- Thread starter
- #26
Turblue
Active VIP Member
This is interesting…trouble shooting guide.
Anyone try this actuator? No calibration required. Looks beefy. According to the codes I have definitely points towards actuator/wiring.
https://www.citydiesel.net/index.php?action=viewitem&itemid=29012&cat=19
Anyone try this actuator? No calibration required. Looks beefy. According to the codes I have definitely points towards actuator/wiring.
https://www.citydiesel.net/index.php?action=viewitem&itemid=29012&cat=19
Last edited:
Rotax_Kid
Active VIP Member
~185k
bendy
Active VIP Member
Hmmm, good find! Very interesting. Definitely an option for an individual confident the turbo and vanes are salvageable and replacement of the actuator will resolve the problem codes.
banditelectric
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2009
- Messages
- 225
- Reaction score
- 614
As a Chrysler master tech have they found a fix for the recall on the CP4 yet? I had to delete my 2020 @ 20,000 KM because the DEF kept freezing up. Now just looking to get the CP4 replaced and thinking about doing the turbo at the same time to avoid any downtime down the road.
bendy
Active VIP Member
Nope... no parts available, they never learned from the other manufactures with the CP4 pump. Techs in the office down East have no idea what to do about the DEF systems either! That's all I've done this week. DEF! Drain the tank, take the pump out, clean the ultra sonic level sensor, reinstall the pump and put fresh DEF fluid back in. Did do one faulty DEF injector on a 5500 though. I think the fluid holding tube for the sensor needs a drain hole! I'm not an engineer though.
bendy
Active VIP Member
The problem with the DEF freezing is that it crystalizes and covers the level sensor and plugs the injector. The system cannot function in our Winter environment. I've done two DEF repairs in the Summer in the last three years.
banditelectric
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2009
- Messages
- 225
- Reaction score
- 614
With deleting mine do you know if that will void the Recall on it for the CP4 pump once they do find a solution?
bendy
Active VIP Member
If any dealer tells you that they can't complete the recall because of the delete... that's BS! Its a "safety recall"!
bendy
Active VIP Member
Just be cautious about where you go. Get to know the Service Writer and Service Manager. Hate to see a dealer flag your truck for basic and powertrain warranties because of a delete!
banditelectric
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2009
- Messages
- 225
- Reaction score
- 614
Can you recommend any good dealers that will not flag it?
bendy
Active VIP Member
I don’t think any dealer will flag it. They just don’t want those types of reputations. They may just refuse to do warranties. I’d just call in ahead of time and explain the circumstance and why you deleted the truck. Ask if they’d be willing to perform the repair knowing it’s deleted. I don’t know Rocky’s policy on deleted trucks, but I know they have a couple of good techs.
banditelectric
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2009
- Messages
- 225
- Reaction score
- 614
Thanks. Literally the only reason i deleted it with that low of KM was because i needed my truck at Christmas and none of my local dealers could get it in. Glad i did now though because its gets waaaaayyyyyy better fuel mileage lol. I still don't understand how the environmental folks think they are saving the world when the truck burns half as much fuel again when stock...plus each DEF jug comes with a jug and a box that ends up in a landfill, plus the energy required to produce that, plus the transportation of said jugs on more diesel trucks getting horrible mileage because of DEF lol....
bendy
Active VIP Member
Yes, it's the guys up to their elbows in our Political leaders who fill their pockets by mandating we do this type of ch!t!
- Thread starter
- #39
Turblue
Active VIP Member
Well code free was short lived. Lol. Made it about 15 kms. Had 30psi boost when accelerating on to the highway. Exhaust brake worked every time. Then check eng light came on and wouldn’t make boost.
So I’m definitely not going the reman turbo route. Seems like a waste of money unless your planning on a new truck in the future.
Thinking of taking the actuator off to see where I’m at. If the turbo feels good I’ll just order the city diesel actuator then I don’t need to worry about calibration.
If turbo is pooch im either going to order one of the bd screamer / fleece vgt turbo
Or take my turbo off and get Alamo to repair it and install the city actuator.
Talked to a few mechanic buddies and think I can tackle the turbo swap myself. Typical do all my own maintenance anyway.
I’m going to check wiring prior to removing anything
So I’m definitely not going the reman turbo route. Seems like a waste of money unless your planning on a new truck in the future.
Thinking of taking the actuator off to see where I’m at. If the turbo feels good I’ll just order the city diesel actuator then I don’t need to worry about calibration.
If turbo is pooch im either going to order one of the bd screamer / fleece vgt turbo
Or take my turbo off and get Alamo to repair it and install the city actuator.
Talked to a few mechanic buddies and think I can tackle the turbo swap myself. Typical do all my own maintenance anyway.
I’m going to check wiring prior to removing anything
There is nothing wrong with rebuilding turbo and a new actuator, provided you haven't overheated it or anything. If you go rebuilt option getting yours rebuilt is best as you know it's history. In some cases it can be beneficial as they will have insight as to what the issue was or even look it over and tell you it's fine and just do actuator. Being that it's out of the truck and professionals looking at it they know if a turbo is fine or not (no offence but a mechanic looking at the turbo in the truck is guessing at best).
That's one of the issues of doing actuator, parts are not returnable and it's a bit of a gamble removing actuator and putting it back while you wait on them, you got to make sure you don't move actuator position if you can't calibrate it.
Nothing really hard about the turbo it's just a real c*nt of a job that you can find someone to do on the side for pretty reasonable, like $700 including coolant and oil change. Time you take off the fluid costs I know it's not worth it to me to swear for hours doing it.
I drove mine for a few months with it, found it really didn't like the cold. Parked in heated garage helped a lot, but if it sat outside a bit it would take a bit of driving to open and got to just feather the throttle until it happens. But driving like that is not good for the turbo at all, hence reason to not just do the actuator especially if you drive with it like that for awhile.
