09 800R Primary Clutch, has this happened to you?

Ridin High

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09 800R primary clutch removal. Ya sounds simple. But have any of you guys tried pulling off the primary clutch, and the clutch pullers shears off inside clutch? Well it's happened to me moments ago. Sled still in the garage, with the primary still on motor, and well i have part of the exploded clutch puller in my hand. Was not using an impact or anything like that. So im curious as to if, this has happened to you and what you, or the dealer did with the sled. Did they have to change out the crank? I will post some pictures later if i get a chance. Thanks.
 

OVERKILL 19

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I assume you have good amount of torq on the puller. Try pouring boiling hot water on the shives and take a dead blow and drive the head of the hammer in between shives while turning pulley. Good luck.
 

Caper11

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I 've noticed that my primary is getting harder and harder to pull off, last time I had to heat it with a hair dryer, and tap the puller lightly with a hammer it get it off, why is this? what is everyones tricks to making the removal of the primary easier. read somewhere that applying blackboard chalk on the taper before installing the primary prevents fretting of the mating parts
does this work? anyone try it.
The last two rides were in headlight deep pow and alot of steam in the engine bay, both times I pulled the primary I noticed a ring of rust near the end of the taper on the crank stub closest to the crankseal.
 

Sledderglen

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Serviced my clutch this past weekend also had a hard time getting off even used heat. Would not budge then Lost took out puller put a huge dollop of grease on the end of the puller and it popped right off no problem. Why?? No idea but it sure worked. Maybe Hydrallic or???
 

Modman

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I 've noticed that my primary is getting harder and harder to pull off, last time I had to heat it with a hair dryer, and tap the puller lightly with a hammer it get it off, why is this? what is everyones tricks to making the removal of the primary easier. read somewhere that applying blackboard chalk on the taper before installing the primary prevents fretting of the mating parts
does this work? anyone try it.
The last two rides were in headlight deep pow and alot of steam in the engine bay, both times I pulled the primary I noticed a ring of rust near the end of the taper on the crank stub closest to the crankseal.

Yes chalk is an old machinst trick for fretting on machine tapers. In the past I have light sanded the taper with 1500 grit to take off some of the burrs, this helped. Very light sanding is all I did.
 

teeroy

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tried to get my primary off the XP mid-season last year to check rollers and bushings....no way Jose. heard of guys breaking pullers off inside, and I'm not cool with using the impact or a bfh on the end of the crank so I just left it. read on dootalk about using water to utilize hydraulic pressure to remove it, and was admittedly skeptical.

well, today I had the XP in the shop to install a tower brace and give her the once over when I thought about giving the water thing a try. tipped the sled on it's side, poured a little Evian in the bolt hole until it was full, wrapped some thread tape on the bolt threads and started the bolt into the fixed half (bolt must first thread thru fixed half before it threads into the crankshaft end)....I'll bet I never got it in 5 full turns into the fixed half and BANG! off it came!!

I was holding the primary from turning with one hand, and using a ratchet with a 21mm socket, it never even got hard to turn the bolt. Amazing....I don't think I'll ever use the puller again....:d
 

OVERKILL 19

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I'll try that next time. Makes sense, hydralic plus mechanical= double the pressure. I've been doing the grease dolop on the end of the puller and have had good luck so far.
 

teeroy

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I'll try that next time. Makes sense, hydralic plus mechanical= double the pressure. I've been doing the grease dolop on the end of the puller and have had good luck so far.
I tried that, as well as the cold sled/hot water on the fixed half shaft, leaving the puller in overnight, inside and outside....nothing. asked the dealer how they would take it off, they said crank on the puller with the impact until it stalls, then pound it with a hammer! :eek:

I was thinking it would be on there until it wore out and fell off....lol. on a side note, there was no visible wear whatsoever on the rollers, and bushings were still well within spec. arms were moving freely, rollers turning nicely. was expecting worse....clutch has around 700 miles since it was apart last.
 

OVERKILL 19

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Nice to see that some dealers take such good care! My brothers sled came back from turples for the updates finally....hafe the f#*!?NG bolts were missing. Track was so tight ya just about couldnt drive it in the trailer.
 

Ridin High

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Yes guys i did end up getting it off. Had to pour some hot water on it to free it up. Took the clutch puller to the dealer, and they said they have had alot of the Ski-Doo pullers break, but never seen one like the one i was using break. i will take a picture to show you. Its pretty incredible how it exploded. Anyways, bought a after market one as thats what they are recommending, and hope the same thing wont happen.
 
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