Kanedog discovers a Clutching CATastrophy, again. Pics!

greenthumb · Mar 13, 2021

RXN said:
These are off my Buddy Tim's 2019 M8000.

So Jerry is going to Magnaflux it and let him know.

Magnaflux does not work with aluminum. You need to use a penetrating dye method. It's often not as definitive.

neilsleder · Mar 13, 2021

greenthumb said:
Magnaflux does not work with aluminum. You need to use a penetrating dye method. It's often not as definitive.

And dye will give you false readings. All those small little casting flaws will show up as cracks if it’s not clean good. And it’s hard to clean that ruff casting.

ippielb · Mar 13, 2021

Was going to keep my opinion to myself and wait for the results to chime in. But I think those are casting marks, I have brand new clutch and it has the exact same appearance in the exact same spots.

Dawizman · Mar 13, 2021

Lund said:
I have seen this before and its usually caused by an alignment issue, the cracks develop on the stationary sheave of the clutch(engine side) because the heat from the engine and the belt scrub, in which you have(black rubber marking) over heats the area the cracks develop.
Make sure your alignment is correct.
I have also seen this by timid operators, essentially riding slightly off engagement a lot before really engaging the clutch. If that's the case you might need to recalibrate the clutch for her. I found the best cure was regear to a lower ratio if that's the case.

Interesting theory. That's the moveable sheave however. I may have to order the alignment bar to check that out though.

She is definitely a timid rider. Will gearing make that much of a difference?

Also, I threw my freshly cleaned clutches on her machine yesterday, and gave it enough throttle to pull ahead about a foot in my shed before I realized I didn't release the parking brake after torquing the secondary. There's a matching black mark on the primary now. So it seems it doesn't take very much?

Lund · Mar 13, 2021

Dawizman said:
Interesting theory. That's the moveable sheave however. I may have to order the alignment bar to check that out though.

She is definitely a timid rider. Will gearing make that much of a difference?

Also, I threw my freshly cleaned clutches on her machine yesterday, and gave it enough throttle to pull ahead about a foot in my shed before I realized I didn't release the parking brake after torquing the secondary. There's a matching black mark on the primary now. So it seems it doesn't take very much?

I have had a few over the years even with the older Suzuki do the same. Usually on the none moving side but i would think that the effect would be the same on the moveable side.
They required replacing the sheave. What i found in common was the belt deflection was too tight and some alignment were off.
Gearing down for a timid rider works well, it reduces the stress on the clutch and belt when a rider is more tended to feather the throttle then just getting on it.

Dawizman · Mar 13, 2021

Lund said:
I have had a few over the years even with the older Suzuki do the same. Usually on the none moving side but i would think that the effect would be the same on the moveable side.
They required replacing the sheave. What i found in common was the belt deflection was too tight and some alignment were off.
Gearing down for a timid rider works well, it reduces the stress on the clutch and belt when a rider is more tended to feather the throttle then just getting on it.

I wonder if gearing down in general wouldn't be a bad idea. As it is these sleds will go way faster than I need to go on flat ground for track integrity. Would gearing down increase performance even for a more aggressive rider?

Lund · Mar 13, 2021

Dawizman said:
I wonder if gearing down in general wouldn't be a bad idea. As it is these sleds will go way faster than I need to go on flat ground for track integrity. Would gearing down increase performance even for a more aggressive rider?

Gearing down will slow your over all top speed for sure and it will increase your initial hole shot and corner to corner acceleration.
There are pro and cons, it all depends what your looking for in performance.
Tree riding i gear sleds down, chute slayers with big hp i'll gear up.
Back country sled will depend on available power, my personal sled is geared up. Most sleds do good with stock gearing unless they are for a specific use or have extra ponies.

RXN · Mar 13, 2021

RXN said:
These are off my Buddy Tim's 2019 M8000.
He came with me to drop mine off at Central Sled and cycle today. And we were going to pick his up (seeing it was my bill to pay on his).

Before we loaded his up we figured lets check the clutch. As mine gernaded.
We aren't sure if these are casting marks or cracks.
So Jerry is going to Magnaflux it and let him know.

I hope Cat is good and honors us unfortunate riders that have clutch issues, with or without warranty.

The results came back as just Casting marks.
I guess we will see.

mountianguy · Mar 13, 2021

Good to hear, glad I was wrong.

TROLLCAT · Mar 15, 2021

:.......

Dawizman · Mar 15, 2021

TROLLCAT said:
:.......

Where did you get that balanced, and what was the cost?

ippielb · Mar 15, 2021

Dawizman said:
Where did you get that balanced, and what was the cost?

Clutch Balancing Shop
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ead.php?t=124311&share_type=t&link_source=app

I have the same ZRP cover on my clutch, here’s the thread that should have all the info you need.

sledshred · Mar 15, 2021

See the picture: on the MACHINED SURFACE there are pin holes all over the place. This is evident on both the movable and non-movable sheaves. This clutch has never seen a blown belt or other issues at all. The picture shows the fixed sheave side as it had many. My guess, these pin holes are from a casting defect called hydrogen gas porosity. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_gas_porosity

TROLLCAT · Mar 15, 2021

Dawizman said:
Where did you get that balanced, and what was the cost?

going to run it until the end of the season, then send it off for balancing its what the customer wants to doo

TROLLCAT · Mar 15, 2021

So when I change out the cover's today I tried to dry fit covers no spring the stock cover didn't fit back onto the tower's of the clutch it was binding I could see light between cover and tower (not using the bolts)

The ZRP cover just fit onto towers no binding you could rotate the cover on the towers

Going to keep a eyeball on this

LMLCHEVY · Mar 15, 2021

ippielb said:
Clutch Balancing Shop
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ead.php?t=124311&share_type=t&link_source=app

I have the same ZRP cover on my clutch, here’s the thread that should have all the info you need.

Can you repost that link in English? I don’t have crapatalk.

ippielb · Mar 15, 2021

LMLCHEVY said:
Can you repost that link in English? I don’t have crapatalk.

https://www.snowandmud.com/snowmobile-chat/124311-clutch-balancing-shop.html

doorfx · May 9, 2021

A look at the new ADAPT primary clutch
A look at the new ADAPT primary clutch | Arctic Chat : Arctic Cat Forum

o zone guy · May 10, 2021

o zone Ta kanedog ... o zone Ta kanedog ... can u xXxplain to me what the hell is going on here... this makes cenTs .. xXxplain thaT 1 ... please .. lol !! jusT kidding ... This is good sTuFF !!

Dawizman · Oct 18, 2021

Found a good deal on a clutch at a used parts place in Edmonton if anyone is looking.

Kanedog discovers a Clutching CATastrophy, again. Pics!

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