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13s were catching fire and brp came out with a terrible bandaid fix. I put the 14 oil tank on my 13. Otherwise a solid sled.

The 14 is a little better overall than the 13. Not sure about the 15.

I have never seen one break up top like that.

To me it looks like you need to loosen the set screw to allow the inner shaft to push in further.

Curious to know what happened. First one I have heard of and spend a lot of time on the forums.....my stuff is getting done by Dave as we speak.

My kit from joe recommended 15.3 grams for 8-10k elevation with Ncd2 helix

Ok maybe one of us is misunderstanding. All I was saying is the avid 7t driver is 1" smaller diameter than the stock 8t driver on the 13, so when you go to the 3" track that is how it is able to fit. I am not familiar with the t3. Doesn't it have an extended chaincase to run the 8t or is it...

Biggest thing is clock your drivers correctly and ensure they are clocked to the insides of the drive windows. To keep the track from walking side to side.

Once the paddles permafold there is adequate clearance and even new there is enough clearance as long as center rivets are ground down in tunnel. The OD of the avid 7t is roughly 1" smaller than the 8t so it is going to cancel out the extra 1/2" of lug. That's what I am running. Run track a...

My DJ kit came with the Dalton threaded pins and set screws. I think this is pretty standard with most kit builders. Roosterbuilt kit is the same.

Ok just trying to start from square 1. I actually had a buddy who couldnt get his to rev up high and he had his parking brake on.....no joke. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

What is your elevation? Are you sure you have the correct clutching? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hey guys, i am from williston north dakota and mainly ride cooke city and the bighorns. 2013 XM 156 is my sled of choice. Big fan of backcountry boondocking and big/deep powder mountain riding. I have spent countless hours on dootalk as powderup2009. I am a big fan of this site and wanted to...