To the "experts"; thoughts and insights please.

ferniesnow

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The only after market items are a rear step attached to the hitch with an LED strip in it and a Rigid LED connected to one of the Auxiliary switches. They aren't the problem IMO.
 

Snort

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Electrical draws can be a real treat to diagnose. I use the disconnects like Maxwell posted on my vehicles that sit for any length of time.
 

ferniesnow

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Any updates?
I have an appointment with the Ford dealer to do the FordScan. They said, it will update whatever it could in the 2013's but they weren't that positive. I told them, I don't want them chasing a short and charging me other than the scan at $99 + taxes.
I thought that was a good place to start. I have checked the obvious; battery terminals, nothing appears to be running when the truck shuts down (no lights, CD player, radio, etc..).
 

2kDoo

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how old are the batteries ? I seem to only got 3 years out of mine.
Friggen optima yellowtops didnt even last that long
 

2kDoo

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2 years to the day.

as much as it sucks to hear, you might need new ones :(
I was fighting starting issues in my 2012.....thought it could be the starter, or the WIn module, or remote start, or anti theft... needed to boost my truck twice and said screw it ill just try new batteries. My starting issues dissapeared.
Are your batteries the stock ones? my stock batteries barely last 3 years when I bought new in 2012
 

ferniesnow

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as much as it sucks to hear, you might need new ones :(
I was fighting starting issues in my 2012.....thought it could be the starter, or the WIn module, or remote start, or anti theft... needed to boost my truck twice and said screw it ill just try new batteries. My starting issues dissapeared.
Are your batteries the stock ones? my stock batteries barely last 3 years when I bought new in 2012
This is the first battery since stock. I noticed when it was cold, there was a certain lag in the stock battery back in November of 2019 and knew it was time to change. Yes, a lot of little things could go wrong.
 

mclean

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You might be able to get forscan yourself. I used it a lot a few years ago and it was free. Might not be anymore
 

sirkdev

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You might be able to get forscan yourself. I used it a lot a few years ago and it was free. Might not be anymore
still is for a trial.. have to be a bit computer savvy and on a windows. Pretty cool what you can do..cable is about $50 ish then free for a month or something...
 

Tchetek

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If battery tested good follow the wire. Get the alternator tested.
Don’t see how the alternator would a concern when he mentioned the vehicular sat for A long period prior to going dead.

pretty obvious the alternator is working if the battery gauge in the dash goes back up to 14 volts after starting the truck. Battery alone will only have 12.9 ish.
 

X-it

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I was coming back from Edmonton Christmas day, stopped at Edson at the first gas station filled it up and my truck would not start. A taxi was going by i flagged him down said drive around Edson see if i can buy a battery, he told me nothing was open. Low and behold the first small convince store was open and right in the window was 4 car batteries. When i returned the wife was wondering where i went to. Changed the battery out, the truck started and home we went with no fan or lights on. When i went to work i asked the mechanic if it might be the alternator, he came back later that day and said you owe me 25 dollars. Okay what for? he said i removed your alternator and rebuilt it for you it works great now.
 

JMCX

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Don’t see how the alternator would a concern when he mentioned the vehicular sat for A long period prior to going dead.

pretty obvious the alternator is working if the battery gauge in the dash goes back up to 14 volts after starting the truck. Battery alone will only have 12.9 ish.

Alternators have diodes that can go bad creating a draw when not running.
 

ferniesnow

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ForScan complete and All (CMDTCs) Passed.
Optional equipment modules: Fail (DPS) and Fail (HSWM)
They didn't explain what the above were. Anybody got any insight?
 

ctd

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Do you know how your battery was tested? Electronic diagnositc is a hit & miss as it does "not" real world load the battery. I prefer the old carbon pile with a proper load & time frame. Do that three times & you will know if the battery is good.

My dual AC Delco's, two years old this spring randomly started going dead. Typical blame it on everything else, finally separated them fully charged & used my carbon pile tester. The second battery when the load was applied for the first 10 seconds was perfect & I started to think batteries are good.

Then it started to drop & was flat.....no second & third test. AC Delco's are not cheap nor are they very good batteries. Did have two year replacement warranty & I was just inside that.
 

Dooitorbust

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Do you know how your battery was tested? Electronic diagnositc is a hit & miss as it does "not" real world load the battery. I prefer the old carbon pile with a proper load & time frame. Do that three times & you will know if the battery is good.

My dual AC Delco's, two years old this spring randomly started going dead. Typical blame it on everything else, finally separated them fully charged & used my carbon pile tester. The second battery when the load was applied for the first 10 seconds was perfect & I started to think batteries are good.

Then it started to drop & was flat.....no second & third test. AC Delco's are not cheap nor are they very good batteries. Did have two year replacement warranty & I was just inside that.

Carbon Pile is where it’s at for battery load testing. Half the CCA rating with a fully charged battery and surface charge removed. If it drops below 9.6 volts in 15 seconds or less, it’s toast. I have zero faith in electronic testers.
 
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