82 enticer wiring diagram

olymon

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I am looking for a wiring diagram for a project. I need to wire in the kill switch and check the rest of the wiring. I do have a connector with the same gray and orange colors on it on the oil tank side if the connector block. Is that where the same color wires from the switch go to?

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CatMan16

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I am looking for a wiring diagram for a project. I need to wire in the kill switch and check the rest of the wiring. I do have a connector with the same gray and orange colors on it on the oil tank side if the connector block. Is that where the same color wires from the switch go to?

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I have a printed copy at home I can find tonight. The key, kill switch and tether are all basically connected to the same wires with separate plugs.
 

olymon

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Thank you so much.

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olymon

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Anybody know if the stock primary clutch puller for this sled will work on getting a 94 C comet duster off? The sled has one on it and I ned to clean up/check out the clutch.

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CatMan16

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No it won't work you will need the comet specific clutch puller. Comet clutch has smaller threads.
 

olymon

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Ok, any idea what the thread is? Metric? How long of a bolt/puller?

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CatMan16

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Recreation Supply in Saskatoon sells the pullers for Comet clutches. You can order over the phone and they will mail it out to you.
 

retiredpop

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You could try using water and teflon tape on the clutch bolt to hydraulic it off. Tip the sled on its side with clutch facing up. Fill the clutch bolt hole with water (some people say to use boiling water) and then thread in the regular clutch bolt with the tape on the threads. It should pop off.
 

olymon

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I will try the water trick later on. Right now I need to figure out why there is no spark. Any body have resistance ratings for the coil and for the stator. Supposedly this sled was running last winter, I'm not sure about that. Key switch on, tether and kill button closed should give me spark right? I may jumper the kill and tether switches so that eliminates them from the trouble shooting.

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olymon

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I know it's a stupid question, but resistor plugs or not. It has br9es plugs in it now.

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CatMan16

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I will try the water trick later on. Right now I need to figure out why there is no spark. Any body have resistance ratings for the coil and for the stator. Supposedly this sled was running last winter, I'm not sure about that. Key switch on, tether and kill button closed should give me spark right? I may jumper the kill and tether switches so that eliminates them from the trouble shooting.

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The switches are all normally closed (grounded) off. So if you unplug them all you should have spark. As for spark plugs I think you have what is recommended.
 

CatMan16

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Here are the electrical specs.
44c3f50a787dfae98840fb368b74b3fd.jpg
 

olymon

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Awesome, catman, you are right on top of it

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olymon

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Ok, more basic questions. Kill and tether switches open to get spark. "On" switch closed to get spark? Where is the cdi located too?? Wish I had more time to work on this but asking all the questions helps narrow down my time needed. Thanks ahead for all the help.

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CatMan16

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Switches are open in the run position. The CDI module is under the steering post below the airbox.
e466858c4f9e9055d75549dc03b02d36.jpg
 

olymon

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Pulled the plugs on all the switches, poured some gas down a short chunk of fuel line to the carb. Floored the choke and it fired up after about 6 pulls. Ran pretty good but died out after about 30 seconds. I didn't get a chance to mess with it more then that. Makes me feel much better about this project.

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CatMan16

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Good news that it has spark. The rest should be easy to work on. Not sure if you were planning on taking the carb apart and cleaning but you should pull the choke plunger out anyway. There is a rubber seal on the bottom of the plunger that dries out and will make it hard to start. You can get a replacement plunger with seal from Yamaha.
 

olymon

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I got it with the carb off of the sled. I had to put on a new needle and seat. The carb will need some adjusting I'm sure. The choke plunger was missing, so I put on one from a spare mikuni carb I had sitting around. The plunger seemed a little sticky. I may pull the carb off and try to get the plunger to slide easier. The seat surface for the plunger is a little uneven so I may try to find a way to smooth it out so the plunger seats properly when closed. I need to check the float height too. The replacement seat and needle seem to be higher than the stock one.

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