06 Dragon
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Did you stay with the Doo skis over the grippers? I am trying to get my front end a lighter feel and steering. I have a different tunnel and rear skid then yours and still have the stock 14 spindles.
Yamaha Viper MCX
- Thread starter Turblue
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Turblue
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Honestly mine steers easy. My 14 yr old daughter was riding it this week on the trail. I think the Center skid shock is a big deal to setup to help that. I put a zbroz spring rated for my weight. What kind of skid do you have?
As for the skis, I haven’t switch to polaris grippers yet. I don’t mind these Doo skis. I want to swap to grippers and see if there’s a difference. I did find the sled darts around on the trail more then my Sidewinder with grippers did. I need to check the toe first and then try grippers next ride.
As for the skis, I haven’t switch to polaris grippers yet. I don’t mind these Doo skis. I want to swap to grippers and see if there’s a difference. I did find the sled darts around on the trail more then my Sidewinder with grippers did. I need to check the toe first and then try grippers next ride.
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Turblue
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Has anyone bypassed the throttle lever switch? Man I’m having issues at times with it wanting to stall. It’s definitely the switch that’s causing it. Just when you start giving it throttle. I adjusted the free play and that helps but seems like snow or ice gets in there and when doing a slow turn it wants to stall. Thinking of bypassing it.
Lunch_Box
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Im running a Munster finger throttle on my Sidewinder, so just unplugged that and tucked it in the wire loom.
Lund
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That is a common problem with that design(from Cat BTW not Yamaha design) My wife's Cat was doing the same thing, my Winder i have not had that issue(yet)
Water will get into the switch and the micro switch will start sticking, the best fix is to make sure its kept clean with fresh die-electric grease. The wife has not had that problem since i keep it maintained.
My 15 viper works really well. I do have a lot of cake into it though. Hard to beat that 1049 engine with a good turbo kit. I’m running boost it’ kit water/air 2860 billet wheel it rocks at 10-12 boost no head shim. I’ve rode my buddies sidewinder a few times and I didn’t notice much difference handling wise. Suspension set up is key on these sleds. The winder does have snappier throttle response off the bottom end , smaller turbo. Some really good deals out there on done up vipers I wouldn’t hesitate at all for someone’s that’s looking to get into a cheap turbo 4 stroke
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Turblue
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This sled just rolled over to 8091kms
06 Dragon
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Don’t want to hi jack this thread. My viper has the racers edge skid 174”. I also have the Zbroz front shock spring with exit triple rates shocks up front. Have curve xs skis. I adjusted my spring with more pre load. Loosened the limited strap one hole. Added more preload to the front end shocks. Have not been out to try it yet.
Lund
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I would recommend to drop the preload on your front shocks, while adding preload to the center shock to be on the right track for easier steering.
You need to add center shock preload till the ass end become squirmy, wanting to bounce around then back it off slightly to stabilize it.
And yes run with a loose limiter strap, always.
Lund
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When i sold my 2010 Nytro in 2017 it was just under the 10,000km and it ran like day one, all on a 260hp Boondocker turbo setup. Similarly to my SW it got built out of the crate so no warranty and ran flawlessly for 6 seasons.
Only in a Yamaha
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Turblue
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Ask away that’s what this thread is for...help out viper owners. When I had bakers skid in my tapex Daryl made some magnetic coupling blocks so I could remove or put in a shorter one in. It helped from the planted feeling.
Little bit of maintenance and moderate boost they run forever . I sold my nytro back in 2013 with same km boosted since day one pretty much. Was gas and go 18 pounds boost with shim . I ran into the owner and it’s still running strong .
Where you have your skid mounted in drop brackets and tunnel will also effect ski pressure . If you haven’t tried skid in upper mount holes I would try it . Sled will sit flatter and helps take some weight off the front end . Crank your center shock spring preload up until skis feel light on the trail and back it off abit . I’ve only run 162 tracks with bakers skids so the longer 174 might make tuning tougher to achieve less ski pressure
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06 Dragon
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Rear skid Front and rear mounting position in upper holes. Also reduced the preload on the rear elka shock. Anyone run the curve xs skis?
06yamahaapex
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I run the winder skis on mine. 162'' with baker rear arm (raptor shock with baker t motion). I find it steers really easy. Also has raptor front track shock as well.
You should notice some difference now. I haven't ran curves but ran grippers for 5 seasons. Grippers work well not aggressive on trail and decent flotation. I switched to sly dog powder hounds this season and really like the extra flotation
06 Dragon
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Heard that the stock suspension and the QS3 lockout shock handles better then the racers edge?
Lunch_Box
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Handles better in what way? Keeping the nose planted, on the trail, in the trees,...
I have the racers edge/baker skid and my buddy has the lockout, both 162, I feel my front end stays planted on a climb more than his locked out.
Lund
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I run the 174 with basically stock skid other then the rails, with the lock out QS3. Keeping the nose planted once you know how to set a skid properly is all about throttle control.
You cannot have both unless you like spending your time setting and resetting the skid all day long.
The info for back country set up is there and as simple as it get's, there are no secret setup or magic, it works with any sleds. I have done 100's of them in all makes, 99.9% once set up properly is a rider issue.
I spend hours riding all season, not just a dozen rides and can on demand cat walk the 174. Pulling a 1500footer i also can keep my ski's inches off the snow or turn it over on its self. Via throttle control/body positioning, practice.
Set it up as per info given and go have fun in them mountains.
Lund
Active VIP Member
The Viper/Sidewinder have a HUGE advantage over any of the 2strokes out there once you learn to use it to your advantage and this has nothing to do with durability.
Its TORQUE, once you learn how to use it you will never struggle with control like ski lift or weight. Most hate 4strokes because they never learned how too and rode it and ride them like a 2stroke.
Its all about learning throttle control, not about "ON/OFF"throttle.
My skid 90% of the time at the rear is set at soft, this allows me to pretty much do anything on demand, like tight tree riding. These sleds are 100% capable of cutting through the trees like a 2stroke all day long with an advantage 2strokes don't have, on demand torque. While most guys tree riding have to stay on it to keep moving you can take it at a much lower pace simply because your not blowing the snow out the back. Torque will keep that track hooked up, a trait 2strokes don't have.
For all my backcountry riding i keep the rear soft, anything an 800/850 climbs or goes through the Winder walks through plus on demand i can do a course correction quicker then they can because of the torque and ability to stand the sled up.
I do use the lockout for big climbs but only when it requires the boost power of the Winder to do so like chutes or a big play hill. My hill climb addiction ended a few years ago and prefer lower pace riding now at my time in life.
I have no special fancy skid or secrets on setup of the rear, its all about seat time. and learning the ride of your sled.
Its TORQUE, once you learn how to use it you will never struggle with control like ski lift or weight. Most hate 4strokes because they never learned how too and rode it and ride them like a 2stroke.
Its all about learning throttle control, not about "ON/OFF"throttle.
My skid 90% of the time at the rear is set at soft, this allows me to pretty much do anything on demand, like tight tree riding. These sleds are 100% capable of cutting through the trees like a 2stroke all day long with an advantage 2strokes don't have, on demand torque. While most guys tree riding have to stay on it to keep moving you can take it at a much lower pace simply because your not blowing the snow out the back. Torque will keep that track hooked up, a trait 2strokes don't have.
For all my backcountry riding i keep the rear soft, anything an 800/850 climbs or goes through the Winder walks through plus on demand i can do a course correction quicker then they can because of the torque and ability to stand the sled up.
I do use the lockout for big climbs but only when it requires the boost power of the Winder to do so like chutes or a big play hill. My hill climb addiction ended a few years ago and prefer lower pace riding now at my time in life.
I have no special fancy skid or secrets on setup of the rear, its all about seat time. and learning the ride of your sled.
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