Sidewinder 174 build and season ride report

Well you can’t really compare the 2 and expect the same results. This is my take on the 2..


2 stroke/850

I have rode the 850 numerous times ..found they are very nimble and responsive to your input. Clutch heat still a big issue with the guys in our group. They have been playing with clutching and nothing seems to be working and keep blowing belts. I know these guys are open to trying other brands due to this issue. Everyone does ride sleds different and I believe that’s why some guys have issues and other don’t. I do really like how this sled handles, throttle response on the bottom is amazing... but once your wot it just feels dead.

4stroke/Sidewinder

I came off a 174 t3 and really loved this sled..the one thing I didn’t like was on the super deep days the ground speed is brutal. I really missed the power to get moving. 2 stroke turbo never really interested me, 4 stroke sled with aftermarket turbo never really interested me either. Tired of spending all the cash. So when the factory turbo Sidewinder came out I was interested. Now after a dozen rides or so here’s my take. The power is very smooth and manageable. Throttle response is awesome for a 4 stroke turbo. When the snow is deep it has the jam to get you the ground speed, but not out of control. Handling is very responsive to your input, but it does require more than a 2 stroke. It’s a totally different riding style. Expecting to jump on one and have it feel the same as a 2 stroke you will be disappointed. It takes a few rides to get the feel and figure out throttle control. One thing I learned is getting into a steep short climb, try to have some momentum instead of hitting the throttle at the last minute. Front end comes up and is hard to control forsure. As for tree riding (90% of what we do) you don’t need much speed..the torque of the motor and 174” x 3” just plows through. Sidehilling is super easy and I found it doesn’t wash out like my xm would do. Following setup tracks can be a chore at times but all sleds can act that way depending on your energy level. When the snow is firm is when I really notice the weight, but very rideable still. So yeah I really love this sled power and handling. It does exactly what I want my sled to do for me.


Hopefully this helps...

Ditto almost to the word for me as well but I will say that once you get the rear skid shock changed you will never have the front end up in the air more than 6 inches, mine is deadly and predictable and now that I played with the shock settings and a few other minor adjustments it is a 9 outta 10 forsure, I was unsure about the Baker skid at first but now I don't think I could go without. I have not rode another sled yet that keeps me in control like my sled does but I do also struggle on the hardback and feel the weight then but I have learned a few tricks to combat that as well. I am excited to see what the QSL does on these sleds as it may be the next best option. I am at 1100 kms of trouble free kms and when I see these 2 smokes with their issues I am very happy to own a 4 stoke turbo on factory warranty ha ha, the winder is a hidden gem that most people cannot wrap their head around but time will tell I guess.

I ordered a qs3 rear shock to try...

Turblue said:

I ordered a qs3 rear shock to try...

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What did that run yeah?
And what's the eye to eye dimensions on that rig, wonder if a guy could run it in a doo or a polaris......

Retail they are 650 ish. Ctc is 16” on my float 3

Turblue said:

Retail they are 650 ish. Ctc is 16” on my float 3

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Geez thats reasonable.

I do see I have a few issues ....said I was going to be honest on this post...

1. During the last ride was it was popping out of gear, I cycled the reverse actuator and seemed to cure it. I pulled the chaincase cover off and on 6 rides seems to be quite dirty. Magnet had a fair amount of sludge on it...I assume it’s breaking in and will monitor.
2. The motor oil tank looks like it’s sweating around where it seals on the chaincase...guessing it will need to be resealed. So make sure you guys check yours.
3. one of the ski rubbers popped out...weird on why that happened.
4. when around a 1/3 of a tank and facing downward on a steep angle the gas tank pickups don’t want to find the gas. Need to get it leveled or roll it side to side to get it going. I believe the left side worked.
5. yamaha tether needs to go...at the right temp it keeps freezing..going to try Pro Armor

Otherwise it’s been good, have around 650km on it now.

Turblue said:

I do see I have a few issues ....said I was going to be honest on this post...

1. During the last ride was it was popping out of gear, I cycled the reverse actuator and seemed to cure it. I pulled the chaincase cover off and on 6 rides seems to be quite dirty. Magnet had a fair amount of sludge on it...I assume it’s breaking in and will monitor.
2. The motor oil tank looks like it’s sweating around where it seals on the chaincase...guessing it will need to be resealed. So make sure you guys check yours.
3. one of the ski rubbers popped out...weird on why that happened.
4. when around a 1/3 of a tank and facing downward on a steep angle the gas tank pickups don’t want to find the gas. Need to get it leveled or roll it side to side to get it going. I believe the left side worked.
5. yamaha tether needs to go...at the right temp it keeps freezing..going to try Pro Armor

Otherwise it’s been good, have around 650km on it now.

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I'm at 490km on mine and will be doing a full "first" service next week, after this weekend outing. Got to get rid of all that break in oil.
I had to adjust my drive chain once about 3 rides ago and the track, but otherwise all is good. No issues so far.
The fuel pickup issue Yamaha is aware of it but no updates so far.

Overall as a stretched out stock sled, it hammers the hill's, the deep powder with massive authority, NO 800, NO 850 will pull with it. Most all that ask about it think its a custom boost and don't believe its stock.
It's true, most are not giving it a fair shake and just dismissing it, till they see it go, then say it's been tampered with. HELL NO, it hasn't.....HAHAHA, no biggie, more fun for me

Not sure if the chaincase is the same as my viper. If it is my dealer has had some issues with chain breakage at around 2500km so for cheap proactive chain should be changed about then. Also when re-installing your reverse actuator it must be cycled a few times to basically re teach it. There have been issues where this was not done and it shifted to reverse at speed and tears the chaincase apart. Just a heads up.

Got boost want snow said:

Not sure if the chaincase is the same as my viper. If it is my dealer has had some issues with chain breakage at around 2500km so for cheap proactive chain should be changed about then. Also when re-installing your reverse actuator it must be cycled a few times to basically re teach it. There have been issues where this was not done and it shifted to reverse at speed and tears the chaincase apart. Just a heads up.

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Mine has been good until the last ride. So cycle it after install? Or before install? I did had trouble code 08 once but went away. I was thinking since it was so cold maybe it froze or something weird.

I just changed the chain in mine and while it was on my hoist I cycles it and ran it forward and reverse for what would be 30 or 40 ft did this about 3 or 4 times just to ensure it knows the direction. No issues I put on probably 30 miles. This is after reassembly that you cycle it.
To ensure your oil tank does not weep use grey silicone when reassembling let it set up overnight then fill with oil. I found this works best.

Catman10 said:

the winder is a hidden gem that most people cannot wrap their head around but time will tell I guess.

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I try to tell my friends to seriously check out the Sidewinder. They just laugh and say "But its four stroke!" I think that the Sidewinder can definitely hold its own. I feel a "I told you so" moment coming up in a year or two.

Got boost want snow said:

Not sure if the chaincase is the same as my viper. If it is my dealer has had some issues with chain breakage at around 2500km so for cheap proactive chain should be changed about then. Also when re-installing your reverse actuator it must be cycled a few times to basically re teach it. There have been issues where this was not done and it shifted to reverse at speed and tears the chaincase apart. Just a heads up.

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I always changed the drive chain on my Nytro at the beginning of every season. Will be doing the same on the Winder.
It's the weak link on something with that type of power and track, if the chain snapped on a big long pull with the track humming at 60mph, the chain case might not be the only thing breaking.
Even with stock power, its not a bad practice for the cost. But on a powerup setup, IMO its a must.

Quite a few guys on TY have had their roll over valve freeze and it blows the seal for the oil tank. Something to look into turblue.

06yamahaapex said:

Quite a few guys on TY have had their roll over valve freeze and it blows the seal for the oil tank. Something to look into turblue.

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Yeah I seen that...guess will investigate that also. Thx

Got boost want snow said:

Not sure if the chaincase is the same as my viper. If it is my dealer has had some issues with chain breakage at around 2500km so for cheap proactive chain should be changed about then. Also when re-installing your reverse actuator it must be cycled a few times to basically re teach it. There have been issues where this was not done and it shifted to reverse at speed and tears the chaincase apart. Just a heads up.

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I think that more of an install problem by someone who did not doit correctly.
It is very easy to not get proper meshing, the system will work 100% but unknowingly to the operator the mesh can be set on the edge of falling out if when it was done the installer did not fallow proper procedure.
It is crucial before installing the motor to make sure the dog gear is pushed ALL THE WAY into the foreward hub. I use my finger and do it manually. Then when you install the motor the dog will slip back abit but not enough to lose good mesh. If you don't it is possible to partially mesh the dog and hub and that will be the issue.
I hope that makes sense.

Yeah forsure makes sense ...I did it the way it lists in the service manual. Worked great for 6 rides no issues, just the last ride it was slipping out. Code 08 would show ..It did this 3-4 times...kept cycling it and seemed to stop doing it. If it was installed incorrect I would think issues would of happened right away. It was very cold that morning-27 so figured possibly something to do with ice build up.

Guys on TY also have mentioned too much belt delflection causes this.

Yes chain stretch on these will cause a lot of play and chain slap. That can cause issues. It’s important to keep the chain in spec.
In comparison to the 2 stroke drive unit, the 4 stroke will load the chain much more so essentially will need more attention.

06yamahaapex said:

Quite a few guys on TY have had their roll over valve freeze and it blows the seal for the oil tank. Something to look into turblue.

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The ROV on any 4 stroke is a maintenance item. If you don't maintain it your going to have trouble.
Simply put, all motors haha including 2 stroke create condensation. In this case and any other 4 stroke with an ROV, the condensation will collect in the ROV. It will be a sludge, water/oil mix. This will actually freeze the ROV in cold temps and also can cause it to hang up in either closed or open position's. Eventually it will corrode the sealing surface and the spring and the ROV will be junk.

The nice thing about this ROV is it's very simple and it works 100%. No electrical solenoids that can malfunction like some others that are available.
ALL ROV are prone to this condensation sludge build up as they are all installed in a similar manner.

For the SW, it takes less then 5min. to service it. Undo 2 hose clamps, disconnect the two hoses. Unscrew the torx screw holding the ROV in place. Clean the ROV with WD40, diesel or parts cleaner. Blow out clean and test.
To test, blow into it with your mouth at the straight fitting, the valve if working properly will unseat and air will flow. If you cannot blow and unseat it, the valve is either still dirty and stuck or no good.
You should not be able to blow through the other end. The elbowed fitting, if you can its stuck open and might be junk.
I say blow through with your own mouth because it should take very little pressure to operate the ROV, if excessive pressure is needed, it might not be any good. Remember it is only engine CASE pressure that is operating the valve and not a compressor LOL.

Personally, i service my ROV every 4-5 rides. If servicing the ROV is too much then i recommend removing it all together and installing a ROCC.....roll over catch container...LOL.