Red line turbo kits

bayman

Active VIP Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
913
Reaction score
725
Location
Calgary
getting out this weekend with mine for the second day. Can't say enough positive about Dave and his support. I did the install myself( oler123 and his old man, I held the light) and Dave was more than willing to chat us up. oler123's old man(and oler123) is bit on an engine geek....been making horsepower for a longtime in cars and sleds and was impressed with Dave's knowledge and willingness the share an get the best product out to his customers. a big thumbs up for Redline from me.
 

maierch

Active VIP Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
1,565
Reaction score
2,512
Location
Calgary
Isn't the whole point of the boost tee to delay the wastegate from seeing boost? If you remove the ball and spring you will just be running wastegate pressure.

http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/parts_BoostTee.jpg



I have seen the gate spring freeze up and give guys problems multiple times. It freezes in the restrictor nipple and prevents the wastegate from seeing any pressure which is essentially the same as removing your wastegate line. The turbo will build as much boost as it can until something lets go.

The spindle operates like a choke which throttles the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which allows the turbo to build a higher boost pressure than the actuator spring will normally allow.
 

Attachments

  • parts_BoostTee.jpg
    parts_BoostTee.jpg
    50.9 KB · Views: 458

Bnorth

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
10,510
Reaction score
19,964
Location
Salmon Arm
http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/parts_BoostTee.jpg



I have seen the gate spring freeze up and give guys problems multiple times. It freezes in the restrictor nipple and prevents the wastegate from seeing any pressure which is essentially the same as removing your wastegate line. The turbo will build as much boost as it can until something lets go.

The spindle operates like a choke which throttles the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which allows the turbo to build a higher boost pressure than the actuator spring will normally allow.
Ok this boost tee is a bit different than most manual boost controllers I've used. Most just use the ball and seat without the spindle restrictor.
 

canuck5

Active VIP Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
870
Reaction score
1,773
Location
Sylvan Lake
getting out this weekend with mine for the second day. Can't say enough positive about Dave and his support. I did the install myself( oler123 and his old man, I held the light) and Dave was more than willing to chat us up. oler123's old man(and oler123) is bit on an engine geek....been making horsepower for a longtime in cars and sleds and was impressed with Dave's knowledge and willingness the share an get the best product out to his customers. a big thumbs up for Redline from me.

I don't know if anyone loves turbos sledding and going fast more than Dave he was a performance shop before building turbos and has always pushed the limit, if he sells you something he will support it he's gone as far as meeting guys on the hill to make there sleds run well. He's pulled a lot of wrenches for me over the years and I also just picked up a sled with his kit looking forward to trying it out.
 

Clode

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
29,050
Reaction score
45,011
Location
BC
Isn't the whole point of the boost tee to delay the wastegate from seeing boost? If you remove the ball and spring you will just be running wastegate pressure.


nope it then acts like a needle valve and bleeds off boost pressure all the time delaying the wastegate opening and raising the boots PSI, I have one on my 5.0l stang and nytro set-up like that
 

Clode

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
29,050
Reaction score
45,011
Location
BC
So what is the purpose of the gate ball and spring then? They must be in there for something?

they are to dampen the initial boost spike. In a high boost system there may be 3+ psi spike
 

NoBrakes!

Active VIP Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2011
Messages
6,002
Reaction score
11,802
Location
Edmonton
nope it then acts like a needle valve and bleeds off boost pressure all the time delaying the wastegate opening and raising the boots PSI, I have one on my 5.0l stang and nytro set-up like that

Turbo 331 in the 5.0? Must rip!
 

fredw

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
3,317
Reaction score
3,586
Location
medicine hat
My impusle kit has this boost controller and its worked perfectly last four years..

Also so talking with Dave he went to the oil less tank design on his kits this year like silber has been doing.. Dead heading oil at turbo and run off the raves supply line.. Cleans up lots and never have to worry about a oil pump failing.. Cheaper to build

will be doing this mod to the impulse real soon as well..


http://www.turbosmart.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/parts_BoostTee.jpg



I have seen the gate spring freeze up and give guys problems multiple times. It freezes in the restrictor nipple and prevents the wastegate from seeing any pressure which is essentially the same as removing your wastegate line. The turbo will build as much boost as it can until something lets go.

The spindle operates like a choke which throttles the amount of pressure the wastegate sees which allows the turbo to build a higher boost pressure than the actuator spring will normally allow.
 

fredw

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
3,317
Reaction score
3,586
Location
medicine hat
Ordered a few of these electronic gauges to replace some of my liquid filled gauges..I'm finding lots of variables in liquid filled depending on elevation.. And think the reading would be a little easier to see
 

skegpro

Active VIP Member
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
9,930
Reaction score
21,329
Location
In them hills.
Ordered a few of these electronic gauges to replace some of my liquid filled gauges..I'm finding lots of variables in liquid filled depending on elevation.. And think the reading would be a little easier to see
I agree 100% way better off having your pressure sensor as close to the measurement point as possible.

I wish the new redline boxes would go to a remote electronic pressure transducer as you are using here.
 

fredw

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
3,317
Reaction score
3,586
Location
medicine hat
Talking with dave, he was also going to give these gauges a try.. See if we can have more accurate readings over all


I agree 100% way better off having your pressure sensor as close to the measurement point as possible.

I wish the new redline boxes would go to a remote electronic pressure transducer as you are using here.
 

ktmsx350f

Active VIP Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
587
Reaction score
514
Location
fort mcmurray
So ..... gave a redline kit a go this year or for a few days anyway. I have had lots of turbo sleds and I’m not new to turbos on sleds in any way. I have owned more then half a dozen turbo sled and i wrench on a lot of turbo sleds and sleds in general as a little side cash job. I’ve owned Boondocker x2, mtntk x2, speedWerx pro charge and redline and I’ve worked on lots of boost-it, Tss, silber and Aerocharger. Start from the beginning took a while to get after making a deposit but was here in time before the first trip so it was ok. Initial install the welds looked good and turbo fit into place good and clean. Charge pipe is a silicone hose and touches on a few points where it would chaff and wasn’t impressed with it. The fuel lines and rave valve mod are very low budget and DIY style with rubber hose and barbed fittings and some hose clamps . We made quite a few small upgrades to the hoses and stuff that just weren’t up to par. The charge box was nice but needs a mount for the fuel controller. Double sided tape is ****. Wiring in the controller is easy but the harness is way to long and it should be way more plug and play for the price. I made a nice harness but have access to things others wouldn’t. Gage’s with the kit were ok but the bracket that came with them was a joke and it came with self tapping screws are you ****ing kidding me!!! Clutch ramps were garbage the machine work looked like it was done with a set of oxy/acetylene torches nothing for the secondary.The air box mod for the cold air intake was horrible and not at all sealed like it should. Turbo looked ok was a 2864 billet wheel and stainless housing. First ride out sled pulled good in the top end but was really rich and throttle response and low end was horrible. By far the worst I’ve ever had. Talked with Dave and he said fuel and a few other things tried to say it was cuz the sled wasn’t brand new and that makes a big difference �� same fuel was running perfect in my mtntk Axys. (108 and 91 mix) rode the sled again tried a few things. Sled was so rich bottom end blew a reed from a backfire and had to replace them. Made some clutching adjustments that loaded the engine sooner try to get ride of the over rich bottom end but over all fuel mapping was garbage. Had the sled dropped off to Dave and he hooked up the lap top and said it was all good. Said it “has that etec stumble but pulls through it”! He said he pulled 5% fuel and it was a ripper and it. Tried it again and it worked better too end but still slower then I wanted for spool and horrible bottom end. Talked to Dave again see if we had any other options he said he could try some resistors in the primary fuel injector circuits or something. (Over richness is from more backpressir with the turbo and no control over stock injectors) I ride trees and this just didn’t work for me. My first though was to put a bd box on it I know they work and can have some control over primary injectors. But was still going to spool slow and not be what I was looking for. Removed the redline kit and installed a BD kit with a Garrett grx. This is what I should have done from the start. If you ride open bowls or like big pulls the redline kit may work for you but if you are on/off the throttle lots and in the trees then it’s not for you. I have seen one of their Axys on the hill also and compaired to my mtntk it was a joke mtntk spools like 1000 rpm faster and no comparison in throttle response. I’ve also rode with the 850 redline since and it too has shuttle spool and throttle response /bog/ burble. These kits remind me of and work just like a silber did years ago when they were using the ****ty dobec controller.
 

fredw

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
3,317
Reaction score
3,586
Location
medicine hat
Little shocked to say the least.. I drove his Poo kit in the spring, had to be the cleanest running turbo sled I ever drove, and I driven a few, his doo 850 kit is even better he says and sold tons of them, his box on the xm Aerocharger has worked great from day one for me, same for another guy who I ride with.. You got some bad luck




So ..... gave a redline kit a go this year or for a few days anyway. I have had lots of turbo sleds and I’m not new to turbos on sleds in any way. I have owned more then half a dozen turbo sled and i wrench on a lot of turbo sleds and sleds in general as a little side cash job. I’ve owned Boondocker x2, mtntk x2, speedWerx pro charge and redline and I’ve worked on lots of boost-it, Tss, silber and Aerocharger. Start from the beginning took a while to get after making a deposit but was here in time before the first trip so it was ok. Initial install the welds looked good and turbo fit into place good and clean. Charge pipe is a silicone hose and touches on a few points where it would chaff and wasn’t impressed with it. The fuel lines and rave valve mod are very low budget and DIY style with rubber hose and barbed fittings and some hose clamps . We made quite a few small upgrades to the hoses and stuff that just weren’t up to par. The charge box was nice but needs a mount for the fuel controller. Double sided tape is ****. Wiring in the controller is easy but the harness is way to long and it should be way more plug and play for the price. I made a nice harness but have access to things others wouldn’t. Gage’s with the kit were ok but the bracket that came with them was a joke and it came with self tapping screws are you ****ing kidding me!!! Clutch ramps were garbage the machine work looked like it was done with a set of oxy/acetylene torches nothing for the secondary.The air box mod for the cold air intake was horrible and not at all sealed like it should. Turbo looked ok was a 2864 billet wheel and stainless housing. First ride out sled pulled good in the top end but was really rich and throttle response and low end was horrible. By far the worst I’ve ever had. Talked with Dave and he said fuel and a few other things tried to say it was cuz the sled wasn’t brand new and that makes a big difference �� same fuel was running perfect in my mtntk Axys. (108 and 91 mix) rode the sled again tried a few things. Sled was so rich bottom end blew a reed from a backfire and had to replace them. Made some clutching adjustments that loaded the engine sooner try to get ride of the over rich bottom end but over all fuel mapping was garbage. Had the sled dropped off to Dave and he hooked up the lap top and said it was all good. Said it “has that etec stumble but pulls through it”! He said he pulled 5% fuel and it was a ripper and it. Tried it again and it worked better too end but still slower then I wanted for spool and horrible bottom end. Talked to Dave again see if we had any other options he said he could try some resistors in the primary fuel injector circuits or something. (Over richness is from more backpressir with the turbo and no control over stock injectors) I ride trees and this just didn’t work for me. My first though was to put a bd box on it I know they work and can have some control over primary injectors. But was still going to spool slow and not be what I was looking for. Removed the redline kit and installed a BD kit with a Garrett grx. This is what I should have done from the start. If you ride open bowls or like big pulls the redline kit may work for you but if you are on/off the throttle lots and in the trees then it’s not for you. I have seen one of their Axys on the hill also and compaired to my mtntk it was a joke mtntk spools like 1000 rpm faster and no comparison in throttle response. I’ve also rode with the 850 redline since and it too has shuttle spool and throttle response /bog/ burble. These kits remind me of and work just like a silber did years ago when they were using the ****ty dobec controller.
 

ktmsx350f

Active VIP Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
587
Reaction score
514
Location
fort mcmurray
Little shocked to say the least.. I drove his Poo kit in the spring, had to be the cleanest running turbo sled I ever drove, and I driven a few, his doo 850 kit is even better he says and sold tons of them, his box on the xm Aerocharger has worked great from day one for me, same for another guy who I ride with.. You got some bad luck

I don’t think it’s luck I know of another one of his kits that works the exact same and doesn’t get ridden cuz low end sucks. The 850 I ride with doesn’t work good and his own Axys was having the same issue. Anyone can tune a sled to 12.2 at wot with any box it’s the initial spool and on/off throttle. The fuel box is junk on has control over secondary injectors and is batch fired it’s like 1986 technology. For the same price you can get a BD side kick, silber or mtntk all 3 are much better setups. If you though this **** was clean you need to try a flash tune sled cuz this is on the same level as an old dobec. IMO it’s 10 years late to the game. He openly admitted this is how the kit works on the sleds to me but said you can throttle through it and said most people don’t complain about it. Once I did a fair amount of research lots of people are unhappy with the fuel mapping pre spool and initial throttle response. When you first get on the throttle you have to load the engine if you hit it to hard to fast it just don’t take it
 

06yamahaapex

Active VIP Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
548
Reaction score
901
Location
Stony Plain
I don’t think it’s luck I know of another one of his kits that works the exact same and doesn’t get ridden cuz low end sucks. The 850 I ride with doesn’t work good and his own Axys was having the same issue. Anyone can tune a sled to 12.2 at wot with any box it’s the initial spool and on/off throttle. The fuel box is junk on has control over secondary injectors and is batch fired it’s like 1986 technology. For the same price you can get a BD side kick, silber or mtntk all 3 are much better setups. If you though this **** was clean you need to try a flash tune sled cuz this is on the same level as an old dobec. IMO it’s 10 years late to the game. He openly admitted this is how the kit works on the sleds to me but said you can throttle through it and said most people don’t complain about it. Once I did a fair amount of research lots of people are unhappy with the fuel mapping pre spool and initial throttle response. When you first get on the throttle you have to load the engine if you hit it to hard to fast it just don’t take it


Does bd pay you to bash redline?
 
Top Bottom