16 f350 6.7, using a bit of coolant

gdhillon · Oct 20, 2020

My tow pig seems to be using a bit of coolant. From time to time I need to top of the primary tank.

The times I’ve noticed it a bit low were after it was first deleted and I was hot ridding it a bit on 230 horse tune

Second would be after I had another shop remove the egr dead weight. Shop I had do the work said it might have just been some air in the system that burped after a spirited drive.

I wasn’t too concerned before, however I just noticed the oil from my ccv‘reroute’ to be a bit milky on my driveway. It did rain last night but I’m not sure if that would have mixed in with the oil it spit out over night

Oil level from dipstick seems to always be consistent

Truck is a 16 6.7 one ton, has 197 k. I bought with 184, it’s been deleted for the past 9ish k

Am I looking at oil cooler issues?

ABMax24 · Oct 20, 2020

How much is a bit? There will be coolant loss if the EGR cooler is pulled, it's possible there was an air bubble.

I doubt any leak is from the oil cooler, your oil would be milky, moisture from the breather isn't uncommon, particularly if the weather is cooler.

Personally I'd be looking for an external leak, so many fittings on these trucks that can leak. Otherwise I'd be looking at the head gaskets, a 230hp tune is really hard on stuff. My biggest tune is 150hp, and I very rarely use it. Just costs to much to fix diesel trucks from playing with them.

acesup800 · Oct 20, 2020

Should be fairly easy to tell if there is an external leak. Throw carboard underneath some evening after you get home and if it was leaking from a fitting or hose, it should be a consistent leak. My 2010 had both hoses replaced due to the seal connection leak.

If no external leaks and nothing getting into the oil, then headgasket and burning it?

skidoo6100 · Oct 20, 2020

Check that the end caps on the primary rad are not leaking... very common problem.

Jobu · Oct 21, 2020

I drive a 2014 and there was s design issue with the rads, something about plastic crimped to the metal frame. Rad ended up cracking and had to be replaced, it was a real slow leak for a couple months prior though. I'm not sure if they updated the design for the 16's but might be worth looking into.

big_red1a · Oct 21, 2020

I think the rad problem was only in the earlier models. Seemed to be worse if the front tow hooks were used. But worth a look. I'm guessing just a air bubble when you do the EGR delete all the coolant from the primary and secondary cooling system is removed and re-added once complete. I milked hoses and added for a week or so after it was done all good now.

gdhillon · Oct 21, 2020

ABMax24 said:
How much is a bit? There will be coolant loss if the EGR cooler is pulled, it's possible there was an air bubble.

I doubt any leak is from the oil cooler, your oil would be milky, moisture from the breather isn't uncommon, particularly if the weather is cooler.

Personally I'd be looking for an external leak, so many fittings on these trucks that can leak. Otherwise I'd be looking at the head gaskets, a 230hp tune is really hard on stuff. My biggest tune is 150hp, and I very rarely use it. Just costs to much to fix diesel trucks from playing with them.

Ive topped it off at an inch below the max cold line.

Underneath the truck is always dry, besides a small spot from ccv in driveway.

I hear you there, however it’s my understanding that the trucks get the best fuel mileage at the highest setting (obv driven lightly though) so now I keep it on 5/ 200hp and drive like a grandpa...currently getting 18l:100km city

I will keep an eye on coolant level and report back if it drops again

On that not too, my oil should be in by the weekend I’ll do a good look underneath when I change that out.

gdhillon · Oct 21, 2020

dgiles said:
Should be fairly easy to tell if there is an external leak. Throw carboard underneath some evening after you get home and if it was leaking from a fitting or hose, it should be a consistent leak. My 2010 had both hoses replaced due to the seal connection leak.

If no external leaks and nothing getting into the oil, then headgasket and burning it?

if it’s HG would I hear pressure realeasing when I take the primary cap off when the truck is cold?

gdhillon · Oct 21, 2020

I’ll give the rad a good look over as well

Are the rad hoses them selves supposed to feel firm or somewhat ‘squishy’

ABMax24 · Oct 21, 2020

gdhillon said:
Ive topped it off at an inch below the max cold line.

Underneath the truck is always dry, besides a small spot from ccv in driveway.

I hear you there, however it’s my understanding that the trucks get the best fuel mileage at the highest setting (obv driven lightly though) so now I keep it on 5/ 200hp and drive like a grandpa...currently getting 18l:100km city

I will keep an eye on coolant level and report back if it drops again

On that not too, my oil should be in by the weekend I’ll do a good look underneath when I change that out.

Mileage isn't always better on a high hp tune, it depends how the tune is written. Usually a high hp tune messes up the DIC and gives false lower than actual readings that deceive the driver. If the rail pressure or timing is bumped up on the higher tunes its possible that mileage may improve, but I'd be very leary of running a tune that runs lots of fuel rail pressure and timing while at normal highway cruising conditions. A good tuner shouldn't make big changes in the tune at the cruising areas, but should bump up rail pressure and timing at fuel load with the addition of extra fuel and boost to make more power.

Cableguy · Oct 21, 2020

upper rad hose will hard in the morning before u start it if head gasket problem

Oilboy · Oct 29, 2020

when you change the oil look up the side of the pan and around the oil filter for coolant. there is a fitting on the turbo that can leak, its a push lock and its very common for them to wear out and drip, i was loosing .5-1'' of coolant between oil changes 10K and that was my issue.
mine also never dripped on the driveway

16 f350 6.7, using a bit of coolant

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