Rene G
Active VIP Member
It’s for emissions, thinner oil means less resistance until, well, it goes boom.
Another 5.7 down
- Thread starter beerwolf
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It’s for emissions, thinner oil means less resistance until, well, it goes boom.
tex78
Active VIP Member
It's piss water even cold
All the issues with chains, guides, lifters, cams all has to do with the 5-20 or 0-20 oil
Put 5-30 or even better 0 or 5 w 40 in, even in gas engines
Rotella has zddp which is a anti friction additive, which all engines need, not just old ones
I use it in everything, geny, mower, bikes, quad you name it
catalac
Active VIP Member
and I bet a tundra engine with 500,000km is in better shape than a dodge, chev or ford with 200,000km.
T6 5W40? Yeah I use that a lot of places
The summary I found online when I researched it was that 0W20 needs higher end oil to be made so is a recent innovation, can only be synthetic and actually is quite good. 5W20 is junk, can be semi synthetic (lower cost) and run 5W30 instead or use 0W20.
catalac
Active VIP Member
wifie has a 2017 tundra.... quick lube oil change with the “required” synthetic 0w20 is about $175, always a twist.
sirkdev
Active VIP Member
Im a synthetic fan for sure, if you watch part source, canadian tire, and napa flyers you can get pennzoil platinum for $7 per litre. According to the inter web machine its about as good as you can get for a gasser oil.
tex78
Active VIP Member
Ya the diesel oil
Still works just fine in gas engines
Has lots of zinc in it ( big part of zddp)
LUCKY 7
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My dealer told me yesterday that they charge $70 for a oil change on my new tundra and they use synthetic.
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yah, we're about $80 for the synthetic with a checkover and tire rotation(or seasonal tire changeover)... Not a $29 oil change anymore
some new vehicles are taking a 0w10 and my rep said they're even working on a 0w5 oil for european imports now
catalac
Active VIP Member
Ok good to know, dealerships maybe the place vs quick lube.
neilsleder
Active VIP Member
yah, we're about $80 for the synthetic with a checkover and tire rotation(or seasonal tire changeover)... Not a $29 oil change anymore
some new vehicles are taking a 0w10 and my rep said they're even working on a 0w5 oil for european imports now
What’s water? They stuff must be crazy thin.
Teth-Air
Active VIP Member
Sewing machine oil.
Dooitorbust
Active VIP Member
Best is to do it yourself. Wish I could post my vid of my last dealership oil change... What a phucking disaster...
catalac
Active VIP Member
I changed the tundra once... engineers did a great job making it a pain in the ass to diy. Skid plate removal, canister filter that needs a wrench built by Boeing to remove not to mention 7L of $13 a Litre synthetic 0w20... $15 filter. And ya ya there’s cheaper places to get syn oil but if dealer does for $70 all in I’m good with that.
Dooitorbust
Active VIP Member
I can’t post a vid, but here’s a few screenshots of a dealer done service on my 16 Duramax. Never made it out of the parking lot before it puked all the oil onto the ground. Luckily I was just idling along and paying attention when the oil light came on. A guy should able to trust a dealer, but after this I don’t think I’ll be back. Cause was a double gasket on the oil filter.
There are big differences in syn oils the new ratings are all to do with low ash and deposit on pistons. Check your lable on the bottle there is a reason some are $6.00 per liter and some are $10.00. There is a huge difference in oil filters as well. Cheap fram penzoil and the no name filters are junk and can cause more damage than enything.Most lube places use the cheapest bulk stuff they can get unless you pay for the upgrade that's what you get. If your truck uses 7L of syn oil and gets a good filter there is no way it should be $70
AreWeThereYet
Active VIP Member
I've taught many apprentices over my years of mechanical repair work that when doing a service,.. albeit construction, farm, auto,.. don't matter. The one thing you do is check that the gasket is still on the filter when removed, if not, check the housing,.. I've seen drain plugs fall out, loose drain plugs, no oil added, missing fill caps, broken dipsticks, but no double gaskets lol.
LBZ
Active VIP Member
Turbos seem to be the biggest issue in our 6.7 fleet. And sensors. Lots of electrical issues too compared to our pre ‘18 models.
Transmissions also don’t seem to last but that’s more of an operator/operating condition issue.
Chronic Cat
Active VIP Member
18 years ago I had a Canadian tire do a bunch of simple stuff on my truck, it was on a little pickup I basically only drove around town and it never hit the highway. I didn't have any choice but to hit the road with it as my daily was buggered ATM so I took it in for some quick maintenance as it was the only place in town that could get it in immediately. I had them balance and rotate rubber, change the filter and oil, and a few other odds and Sodds. I didn't make it 5 min down the highway and I heard a loud bang. A second later the oil light came on. I let out of the throttle and stopped immediately. That little engine was already knocking pretty good by the time I pulled over on the shoulder. Turns out they installed a completely improper filter, the rubber gasket diameter was about 3/4" larger the the filter housing diameter, it was a metal on metal scenario without any seal. When I popped the hood, the filter was dangling all cock eyed and the gasket was hanging by the male threads the filter threads on to. It took a while and it was some headache, but I got them to reimburse me for the bill I just paid & they paid me out for the truck.
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