the_real_wild1
Active VIP Member
Went down that road years ago with my dodge diesel. No thanks. Lost a lot of money because of it.
2016 duramax
- Thread starter eclipse1966
- Start date
LBZ
Active VIP Member
Doesn't matter which power adder one uses. It monitors and records max torque. If gm looks for that and finds it exceeded it's factory max, warranty done.
tex78
Active VIP Member
I was being funny lol
And yes I should have commented, to the guys that chip stuff, g.m is asking for calibration data, snap shots of h.p and torque data e.c.t
More and more if truck has issues, and unfortunately taking chip out doesn't return all that lol
I do know one way to put it back stock and they can't tell, you would have to pay but to reprogram ecm would set it back
LBZ
Active VIP Member
LML and older only though right?
tex78
Active VIP Member
Lml and up forsure yes, been asked many times
Lmm and older no idea, didn't work with g.m till 2011
If you have warranty, leave your truck alone. Guys spend $2000 to delete to save $10/tank in fuel savings... I ended up deleting because I was out of warranty and the def heater/pump died. Fuel economy gains are minimal, lucky to be 10%. Power gains are minimal, I run a tow tune that's close to stock. At a stock tune, these trucks have tons of power for GM's max tow rating. When they step up their game to 30,000lbs like dodge, then we can talk power gains.
One thing that is weird, my oil never turns black, it stays a yellowish golden, even past 8000km. I'm running an EFI live tune, no smoke out the exhaust, very clean.
One thing that is weird, my oil never turns black, it stays a yellowish golden, even past 8000km. I'm running an EFI live tune, no smoke out the exhaust, very clean.
the_real_wild1
Active VIP Member
That right there is the only time to delete. Out of warranty and you have after treatment issues.
pfi572
Active VIP Member
Same as Merc
Deleted at 131k as pump in urea went.
Didn’t gain anything as well.
EFI mild tune and same results with oil.
tstams
Active VIP Member
My empty mileage on the highway was down at 13L/100Km and my towing mileage (38 Foot Sled Trailer) was 16L/100 doing 120-130 Kmh. Stock the best I got was 16L/100 empty and 21 L/100 Loaded. And I did the 25 Hp Stock tune I believe I also like that there is no black smoke that is a big win for me.
the_real_wild1
Active VIP Member
Pretty crappy mileage for stock. Mine is around 13l in the summer. Winter using the remote start all the time I'm about 16-17l
LBZ
Active VIP Member
That's not so great either. Running back to bc with sled on the deck the other day I was getting 18L. Empty was around 12L. Usually around 10L in the summer empty with no headwind. I hand calculated a couple times and my lie o meter was within .5 mpg of the actual.
the_real_wild1
Active VIP Member
This is my daily driving average. Running down to Arizona last month I was seeing 10L at the higher speed limits but I don't count that as it isn't an average around town. Pretty happy with it.
ippielb
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2011
- Messages
- 1,912
- Reaction score
- 3,278
- Location
- SE Saskatchewan
- Website
- www.youtube.com
Best thing you can do is go the speed limit if you’re looking for mileage, there’s a HUGE difference in my truck when going from 100 vs 120. If I was aiming for the best fuel economy i’d even go slower. 90-95 keeps the RPM down and works the truck less, it isles down the road almost. Less RPM=less amount of times the injectors fire.
You will rarely ever see me speed for that reason alone.
You will rarely ever see me speed for that reason alone.
the_real_wild1
Active VIP Member
Wanna hear something really screwed up? At about 80-85 mph my truck gets into a sweet spot and it gets good mileage lol. Can't do that here but down south I found that out. It was kinda the opposite of what it should have been.
LBZ
Active VIP Member
I found the same in both my '16 and my '07 dmax's.
Toro
Active member
Going through the Park portion of the drive to Revy this year (posted 90km) I noticed my fuel milage was substantially better than running down the #2 at 120km. Key seems to be for how my p/u is geared to keep it around 1800rpm.
LBZ
Active VIP Member
Trying to push a brick down the hwy definitely affects mileage the faster you try to go.
Funny enough my 11dmax was the same when pulling my trailer. Did better at 110-115km/hr vs 100 km/hr.
Cdnfireman
Active VIP Member
Every engine/trans/axle combo has its own sweet spot where the efficiency is at the maximum. Finding it is the trick. And just when you think you’ve got it figured out, the wind/ load etc is different and it all changes. Logic generally dictates that slower requires less energy and is therefore more economical.
ippielb
Active VIP Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2011
- Messages
- 1,912
- Reaction score
- 3,278
- Location
- SE Saskatchewan
- Website
- www.youtube.com
Empty, more then likely will have a sweet spot in lower rpm where the motor isn’t lugging. But as soon as you start adding extra load to the truck it will need extra RPM to prevent lugging. Probably explains why the higher speed gave you better mileage. The wind resistance was less of a drag then the load you were towing, so increasing the RPM made the engine work less.
In the end, I run my truck where th EGT’s are th coolest, from everything I’ve gathered, low EGT’s is efficiency.
In the end, I run my truck where th EGT’s are th coolest, from everything I’ve gathered, low EGT’s is efficiency.
Similar threads
