Transmission Gasket problem

[Zar]

I just wanted to share a problem that could be avoided. I had my transmission serviced ( along wioth some other mechanical work ) at a local shop near work and found out they sub out the tranny flush to a Jiffy Lube acrosss the parking lot. I was not concerned at that point since I realize that Jiffy had the proper machine to heat and flush the fluid. I picked up the truck and no issues. 3 months later I noticed a pan leak on the tranny. I looked up the torque value ( 11 ft ;bs ) and re torqued the pan bolts. I noticed on the pan that it is facotry stamped " Gasket can be reused ". I noticed that the expoised edge of the gasket was very visible and squeezing out beyound the edge of the pan in some places a little. I cleaned the leaking fluid off the pan and drove the truck for a few hours. It leaked even worse. I bought a OEM pan gasket and proceeded to drain the fluid and remove the pan. The gasket that was replaced 3 months ago was very cheap and very different than the OEM ford gasket. The rubber gasket that Jiffy lube was distorted and seemed to be too soft and I suspect the gasket was reacting to transmission fluid and becoming gooyie. The facotry gasket cost $45 and appears to be better quality. I am in the process of filling the tranny with fluid and test driving the truck to test the seal. I just wanted to warn people that there are some cheap gaskets used by these lube shops that are crap and will cause you grief.

Cheers

 

[cokecrazed007]

Thank you for sharing your experience. I will watch what they use on my truck a lot closer.

Sent from my LG-E973 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tex78]

It's am aftermarket filter and gasket they used.

Can't read as u allways reuse the original gasket.



sent from A UNKNOWN PLACE IN TEA LAND

 

[dodgeguy]

100% with tex... ALWAYS use the reusable gasket, (unless there is an existing leak...which happens MAYBE 1% of the time) most trans. kits fast oil change shops get are CHEAP cork/nitrile gaskets, that SUCK. Seems like a rookie move to NOT reuse the gasket that clearly states REUSABLE...oyyyy

Yeah that kinda rookie move frustrates the hell outta me....lol

 

[Rjjtcross8]

The factory ford gaskets are the way to go. The two wires you see running through the gasket is not only there for rigidness but will help limit over torque and gasket compression. The problem with jobber gaskets is that they can warp the pan because it is to easy to over torque (cork especially). If they used cork make sure you flip the pan over and check it on a flat surface. Alway torque your pan in nm not foot pounds as well. If no reusable gasket is available then I recommend using permatex's right stuff silicone. It's blow out resistant, awesome fluid resistance and has virtually no cure time.

 

[brian h]

factory reusable gasket is the way to go,only ones you need to replace are the cork ones which are getting far and few to see,the ford 4r100 uses silicone but only use the black silicone

 

[growly]

FYI Sherwood park service can do this for you without sending it out to a quickie lube. I know, I work there!

 

[Zar]

The factory ford gaskets are the way to go. The two wires you see running through the gasket is not only there for rigidness but will help limit over torque and gasket compression. The problem with jobber gaskets is that they can warp the pan because it is to easy to over torque (cork especially). If they used cork make sure you flip the pan over and check it on a flat surface. Alway torque your pan in nm not foot pounds as well. If no reusable gasket is available then I recommend using permatex's right stuff silicone. It's blow out resistant, awesome fluid resistance and has virtually no cure time.

Thanks for the feed back. The pan gasket surface was distorted as well due to the crap gasket and appling the correct torque. In hind sight the torque from the book is for the factory gasket and not the nitrile rubber gasket. I did have to flip over the pan and pound out the bolt holes until they were flush again with the rest of the mating surface in a few spots. I have since talked to a few others about this ordeal and now I have questions about the tranny fluid used . The manual calls for Mercon SP and the shop used Boss Lubricants Multi Vehicle Synthetic ATF. The truck works fine and the website says it is compadible but I hope there is no long term issues. Mercon SP is $13 per litre and I need 18 litres . I am willing to pay the difference if I knew I had a choice ( for the piece of mind ). Has anyone else used the Boss Lubricants Multi Vehicle Synthetic ATF in lieu of the factory ATF ?