my griz is afraid of water!

[all-4-stroke]

okay so im still tryin to "waterproof" my griz but still having problems. ive dialectric greased every connection, snorkled, and extended all vent lines. the poiblem im having is when the quas becomes submerged, and not all the way either. i was testing it out on a boat launch last weekend to have control over how much is submerged at once for diagnostic purposes. wat i found is that with the engine submerged but the intake and carb not, the quad will run for a few minutes then die. i pull it out and wait a bit and it fires back up. i heard the spark plug cap is likely candidate, but i excessively aply diaelectric grease to the cap. so really im stumped as where to go from here. any suggestions would be great.

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Is your exhaust under,.. could be too much back pressure.

 

[all-4-stroke]

no kept the exhaust out of water.

 

[moonbuggy]

The year of your Grizz tells me you have a carb. I'm thinking it stalls because the water is cold. Try putting your chock on about half way or so.

 

[goodngrubby]

Try replacing the plug cap. My outlander was doing the same thing, as soon as the cap got wet, it would spark against the head and that cylinder would die out. I put new plugs and caps in it, and it worked flawlessly.

 

[leonard]

Try replacing the plug cap. My outlander was doing the same thing, as soon as the cap got wet, it would spark against the head and that cylinder would die out. I put new plugs and caps in it, and it worked flawlessly.

^^^^^^^^
That and make sure you Dielectric grease the Plugin on the front for the 4wd/difflock.

i heard of it shorting and causing kills to the motor.

also did you route line from the carb? and plug the drainplug on the carb?

there should be 2 overflows on the carb that need to have lines ran from them and i used to just stick a golf tee in my drain line.

 

[MRFUSION]

We had this problem back in 02 or 03 with Grizzlies. Does it still do as bad with the side engine panels still on? We had them stuttering and dying when the water would hit the hot header pipe and cause steam that would get trapped under the fuel tank and suck in the airbox intake. We would modify the intake and remove side panels in hot weather, some different jetting and insulation kits. It still could be electrical though, hope you nail it down.
Shad

 

[all-4-stroke]

no the steam shouldnt be an issue. i snorkled because i was having the steam problem. my fuel overflow lines are re-routed, but my drain is not plugged. does water really creep in through the carb drain? and i'll try greasin the 4wd plug on the front diff as i didnt do that yet.

 

[leonard]

no the steam shouldnt be an issue. i snorkled because i was having the steam problem. my fuel overflow lines are re-routed, but my drain is not plugged. does water really creep in through the carb drain? and i'll try greasin the 4wd plug on the front diff as i didnt do that yet.

yes it does and it wont only do it when your in deep either.

i was having crazy problems with stock carb at one time id be blasting through water holes / creeks and my bike would start to sputter like a mother and took for ever to recover requiring at least 3 bowl drains.

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that said your saying your bike smartens up on its own right after dieing.

which leads me to plugs & shorting out of some kind.

under the seat are also a assortment of plug ins that need dielectric grease.
lots under the dash/racks too

ALSO.. coil cable now hear me out i only found this problem on a Rhino 660 but it should be the same on ours.

the cable running to the coil had a plug in on it with a small connector. their was a problem at that connector it was either lose or broken and this chick we took on a long trip had this rhino it was her fathers and it was dieing every single time she hit a deep or even average hole.

on the trail i rerouted that problem back to this wire and i had to strip back the wire back off the nut wrap the wire and tighten the nut down on it.

after that she was going waste deep no problems

typically when you have carb problems you will require to drain the bowl to fix it or the bike will sputter like hell and die if you touch the throttle.

everything else is usually electrical and hopefully that gives you some direction.

 

[all-4-stroke]

well i know i got every single connector cleaned and greased, i stripped all the plastic off and checked all the wires, ground connections and routing. still doesnt mean there isnt a short that i missed, but highly unlikely. ive got some other ppl doin some diggin for me aswell on this issue. i think im gonna try a new plug cap, double check the carb, and see wat happens then. if i dont get my problem figured out, at least this thread should cover everyone elses problems haha

 

[all-4-stroke]

okay well did some more field testing and i discovered my problem was water getting into the carb. now i didnt get a chance to figure out how its getting in but since my carb drain doesnt have that little drain hose on it i'm willing to bet its through there(since i couldnt plug the hose and try to eliminate it as source) hope this thread helps somebody. thanks guys for all the suggestions

 

[leonard]

yea i said you need to plug that line with a golf tee earlier in the post

aswell as route your 2 vent lines up to the handle bars

 

[all-4-stroke]

yeah thats the least of my worries right now. might be doin a complete engine rebuild. think my connecting rod is goin haha. apparently water does not make a good substitute for oil in the crankcase. oh well 686 big bore here i come.

 

[leonard]

yeah thats the least of my worries right now. might be doin a complete engine rebuild. think my connecting rod is goin haha. apparently water does not make a good substitute for oil in the crankcase. oh well 686 big bore here i come.

more like a 720 and spliting the cranks if the rods gone

 

[all-4-stroke]

any other suggestions if i have to do a complete rebuild? besides an edelbrock carb, stroker kit, and a cam?

 

[leonard]

any other suggestions if i have to do a complete rebuild? besides an edelbrock carb, stroker kit, and a cam?

well you don't have to do any of that

but if i was dealing with a bent rod which requires removing and splitting the crank not just the case.

id just split the case get a stroker hot rods crank be done with that.

most likely dealing with a scored cylinder id take it to 686 with a high comp like I've done in the past.

and replace obviously the gaskets with cometic gaskets.

your not required to do anything with the cam or the carb it will work you will most likely need to re-jet but that's not entirely certain.

its all up to what you want to do.

just remember the more you piss with it the more you will have to tune and re-tune and that's all time you wont spend riding the thing. take that from personal experience.

my advice is stop swamping it.

 

[leonard]

and replace the timing chain while your in there

 

[all-4-stroke]

yeah not to sure wats all wrong with it. but time will tell. hopefully i can get around to it this winter. might have to postphone it till spring. but you got a point. keep it simple. i dont need to be tweekinand tuning all the time.

 

[leonard]

you will gain alot from just the stroker crank and the .5m 686cc 11:1 piston.

id go that route and get it running again before i touched the cam.

the cam is easy and can be done anytime. the cyl head and crank is what needs fixing right now right or it sounds like it anyways.

and you might find its not needed because the stroker and the piston will if im correct take your bike to like 720 CC 11:1 bike which should be quite substantial.

 

[all-4-stroke]

yeah i think your right about that. now i just gotta find some time to yank the engine. the way things are goin its lookin like a winter project