Bonger
New member
Hey guys...Just thought I'd put this out since I have seen a million threads on intakes/air box flow, performance, etc. It's a long read, but I think it's a great mod.
- I have an X-Fire 1000 that I've modded every which way back and forth...was a 1200 at one point...now back to ported 1000...clutching, piped, etc, etc. Not the point. Basically this could be for any sled stock or modded.....
I was using the BDX High flow intake which I really liked alot and seemed to make the machine alot snappier....but the problem I found was that in the deep stuff it would sometimes get snow accumulating around it or melting on it causing a fine layer of ice which would cause it to bog out HARD in when a guy needed it. I figured the best setup is still breathing from up around the dash so I wanted to modify my stock box to be a bit of both worlds....have good cold flow but also be able to breath from further back in the hood so I did the following...
1.) Got my old stock black intake box out off the shelf. Went down to cat and asked for a straight 3" intake Air Horn - - - They made them for a different application but my dealer knew right away what I was after. The stocker where the rubber bellow from the hood meets up reduces down causing a restriction (3" down to 2" I believe).
*** You will have to cut this 3" pipe to fit under the hood. Making sure that it is as close as it can be when the hood is closed or the rubber bellows will actually suck in and collapse! - - Learned the hard way the first time
(Pictures 1 and 2)
2.) I had already installed them, but a company called MoFLOW makes front screen/frog skins that you can install on the outer side of the sled nose cone (see Picture 3). These were installed for my BDX intake to use for cold air so I took advantage of this.
3.) On the bottom sides of my black stock box...I drilled air holes through the box (making sure to vacuum out any shavings/etc) that matched the oute MoFLOW venting on the nose cone of the machine. I then found some frog skins to match the patterns and act as the inner screen.
SORRY NO PICS! Had already installed the nose cone when I thought of sharing this. But the idea is simple....find frog skins that match the holes you drilled.
(attached pic number 4 is of the front of my clutches but gives you the idea of what I'm talking about)
4.) I also drilled an covered the top of the black box in frog skins to take advantage of any air flowing in the front of the sled.
******What I found was great. When I initially tried JUST the 3" air horn (no extra holes in the black stock box) it ran 'Okay' but I did get the occasional bog and was finding my plugs weren't ideal compared to what the BDX box had done. ---- Needed more cold air. So AFTER I did the steps above and modded the stock box with air flow holes = PERFECT!!! Got snappy response (and I'm running 56mm T-Bodies) and when I got really buried in the deep stuff and my front end was plugged...the sled could still breathe through the 3" running under the dash or from under hood air.
- I have an X-Fire 1000 that I've modded every which way back and forth...was a 1200 at one point...now back to ported 1000...clutching, piped, etc, etc. Not the point. Basically this could be for any sled stock or modded.....
I was using the BDX High flow intake which I really liked alot and seemed to make the machine alot snappier....but the problem I found was that in the deep stuff it would sometimes get snow accumulating around it or melting on it causing a fine layer of ice which would cause it to bog out HARD in when a guy needed it. I figured the best setup is still breathing from up around the dash so I wanted to modify my stock box to be a bit of both worlds....have good cold flow but also be able to breath from further back in the hood so I did the following...
1.) Got my old stock black intake box out off the shelf. Went down to cat and asked for a straight 3" intake Air Horn - - - They made them for a different application but my dealer knew right away what I was after. The stocker where the rubber bellow from the hood meets up reduces down causing a restriction (3" down to 2" I believe).
*** You will have to cut this 3" pipe to fit under the hood. Making sure that it is as close as it can be when the hood is closed or the rubber bellows will actually suck in and collapse! - - Learned the hard way the first time
(Pictures 1 and 2)
2.) I had already installed them, but a company called MoFLOW makes front screen/frog skins that you can install on the outer side of the sled nose cone (see Picture 3). These were installed for my BDX intake to use for cold air so I took advantage of this.
3.) On the bottom sides of my black stock box...I drilled air holes through the box (making sure to vacuum out any shavings/etc) that matched the oute MoFLOW venting on the nose cone of the machine. I then found some frog skins to match the patterns and act as the inner screen.
SORRY NO PICS! Had already installed the nose cone when I thought of sharing this. But the idea is simple....find frog skins that match the holes you drilled.
(attached pic number 4 is of the front of my clutches but gives you the idea of what I'm talking about)
4.) I also drilled an covered the top of the black box in frog skins to take advantage of any air flowing in the front of the sled.
******What I found was great. When I initially tried JUST the 3" air horn (no extra holes in the black stock box) it ran 'Okay' but I did get the occasional bog and was finding my plugs weren't ideal compared to what the BDX box had done. ---- Needed more cold air. So AFTER I did the steps above and modded the stock box with air flow holes = PERFECT!!! Got snappy response (and I'm running 56mm T-Bodies) and when I got really buried in the deep stuff and my front end was plugged...the sled could still breathe through the 3" running under the dash or from under hood air.
