Headlight Delete Intake DIY

ippielb

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Here’s my take on doing the intake once you do a headlight delete.

First off I went to Canadian tire and bought these exhaust adapters. Two of them, one for each side.
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Second I bought two identical cylindrical pod filters. 3-1/4” diameter, 5-1/4” long and the inside diameter of 2-1/4” at the mount.
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Then you take your old intake off with the headlight.
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Remove the intake grommets.
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You’ll be left with a hole like this in your hood from where the intake grommet was.
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Take your shop vac and stick it inside the hood right by the hole to suck up any plastic and foam
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Take tour dremel or file and lightly start taking material away from the edges to make the hole slightly larger.
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Here’s how mine looked after I took some material away. Not much difference, you want to take off as little as you can so it will hold the exhaust very snug.
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I sprayed the exhaust reducer with some light silicone lubricant and pressed it through, mine was difficult to get through because I wanted it to hold it very tight.
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Here’s how it looks from the inside of the hood. The larger flange size of the 2.5” pipe will stop it from coming through the hood so press it up as far as you can.
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Stick your pod filters overtop of the exhaust reducers that stick out of the intake grommets.
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Put your prefilters over top of your pod filters, and the hose clamp over the prefilter to hold it snug.
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Now you have to route from the pod filters to your air box/intake. I have to find some more intake tube because the one I bought isn’t big enough diameter.
 

ippielb

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Went to Erik’s Industrial, the old Good-All Rubber in Regina and found some rubber reinforced flexible ducting. 3” inside diameter when it is straight, and 2-3/4” when bent when the ridges fold in. Ran me about $8 a foot, I purchased 6’ so I could screw up and have spare material left over.
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You can see how when the tubing is bent the ridges fold inwards, why it’s more so a 2-3/4” inside diameter.
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Measure out how long you need to route the tubing, make sure you measure the longer part of the arch, you can always compress the tubing, but you can’t extend it once it’s cut. I needed a 19” piece, and a 6” piece.

To start the cut on this, I took my good set of cutters, and lightly grabbed at a spot of the reinforcing wire, made sure I barely had the wire in the pliers, and snipped the wire inside, but not all the way through the rubber the inner wall is still intact. You can see the picture of how I did it, and the small slit it leaves in the rubber.
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I took my knife and started my cut right at the slit, the rubber is quite strong so try cutting through instead of pushing through, you don’t want to make a mess.
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Try to make the cut as smooth as possible so it doesn’t have any lose ends or cuts to lead to ripping.
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Go to the direct opposite side of where the cut end of the wire is sticking out, and cut the wire there as well.
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Now you can take your Pliers and grab the end of the wire and pull the wire out.
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If you try and take larger pieces then half of the diameter, it really doesn’t work well, I found half works the best for length, shorter would be easier but you would cut the rubber a lot more times.
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Now keep cutting the wire on opposite sides and pulling it out until you have enough without wire to stretch over your intake and clamp down.
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Here’s my intake, I could’ve bought a flexible PVC connector at the hardware store to connect my intake tubes, but I didn’t feel like adding the weight of the thick rubber, and spending the $7 they wanted. So I cut a section and removed all the wire from it and made my own connector.
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I cut and removed the wire from all the ends of the ducting and installed them together for a test fit, checked my lengths and clearance.
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Then I put the hood on, it was a little difficult with the foam that is stuck onto the hood, I am debating on removing the foam because the rubber is to grippy, and the foam takes up space in the limited amount of clearance between the exhaust piece and the hood itself.
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To make the installation of the intake ducting, I removed my pod filters, and pushed the exhaust adapter into the hood more. And angled it down, enough to slide the ducting over top enough to get a clamp around it.
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ippielb

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Make sure you take time to wrap it all up with heat tape so the pipe doesn't melt it.

Yep, I still gotta run into the city and grab some proper size hose clamps, you can probably see my pictures don’t have any clamps on any of the connections and it irritates the heck out of me because trying to wrestle the other rubber pieces over top it popped the other side off lol. Also I’m going to try some insulation wrap from princess auto I seen they had, I’ll probably insulate wrap, and then stick the reflective aluminum tape over top.
 

ippielb

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Ohhh, you were talking about wrapping the pipe, I don’t think I have the clearance to fit the pipe wrapped in there by the coils, and at the spar. Plus I never had any luck wrapping a 2 stroke pipe, it’s never neat and looks like crap. It sucks trying to wrap something by yourself, especially if it’s a cone shape...

That wrap at princess auto isn’t really an exhaust wrap, it’s a tape I believe that’s meant for insulating water pipes I think. I thought it might offer a little insulation from the heat on the actual air intake ducting itself.

Unless you were talking about this
 
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knh208

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I mean to use good quality heat deflector material on the hose. Foam won't work. Needs to be foil and fiber.
 

ippielb

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I mean to use good quality heat deflector material on the hose. Foam won't work. Needs to be foil and fiber.

But the price difference, will I notice an effect from insulating to keep heat out vs insulating to prevent the pipe from melting. I’m guessing not. I couldn’t find that stupid insulating wrap at princess auto anyways. Lol
 
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