Troublesome XM

brian h · Mar 28, 2020

i dont blame you Sean i hate stator change also so hope you dont have to do one. If you do i will come over and help by drinking beer

maxwell · Mar 28, 2020

skegpro said:
How did you test the injectors?

I have seen something similar to this before and it was a partially broken injector wire.
Voltage would come through but at a full pulse it couldn't get all the current through the broken wire.

Interesting, didn’t test them. Just put different ones on from another machine and still acted the same.

maxwell · Mar 28, 2020

Rotax_Kid said:
With the others now that you've ruled out Rave issues. Stator. Injector system needs a pile of power to fire and if it doesn't get it, it will miss.

Stumble on one cylinder or both?

Not sure....wonder how a guy could figure that out.

Now that I think about it, I know what it’s like to drop a cylinder. It’s not like that it definetly seems to be missing on both I’d say.

Longhairfreak · Mar 28, 2020

How is the stator?

oler1234 · Mar 28, 2020

maxwell said:
Interesting, didn’t test them. Just put different ones on from another machine and still acted the same.

if I recall the injectors are matched to the ECU, that's why there's a bar code on them. mayby not the best test

stator, just hook up the volt meter. should read 14-14.7V steady the entire rpm curve. this will also show if the regulator is screwed.

coil wires have always been a problem for me, ohm test them. they should be under 50ohm. check for black soot. sometimes their broke but still pass a ohm test.

as well check you intake for any shop rags or blockage, sounds stupid but its happened.

last suggestion which I had, chafed injector wire. it would ground out, either causing a bog and sometimes just killing the sled. PTO wires weren't placed correctly and it took 4 rides, ground out on the mag side coil.

maxwell · Mar 28, 2020

oler1234 said:
if I recall the injectors are matched to the ECU, that's why there's a bar code on them. mayby not the best test

stator, just hook up the volt meter. should read 14-14.7V steady the entire rpm curve. this will also show if the regulator is screwed.

coil wires have always been a problem for me, ohm test them. they should be under 50ohm. check for black soot. sometimes their broke but still pass a ohm test.

as well check you intake for any shop rags or blockage, sounds stupid but its happened.

last suggestion which I had, chafed injector wire. it would ground out, either causing a bog and sometimes just killing the sled. PTO wires weren't placed correctly and it took 4 rides, ground out on the mag side coil.

Yes the need to be flow tested and calibrated on buds but still works fine.

Where would one test the voltage at? Accessory power wire?

Electric start sled so maybe different

kingcat162 · Mar 28, 2020

The plug wires are known to fail - I carry a spare now after it happened to me on the hill - I've also heard starting the sled without gauges plugged in can wreck a coil also - not saying u did that - just heard of that problem also

oler1234 · Mar 28, 2020

maxwell said:
Yes the need to be flow tested and calibrated on buds but still works fine.

Where would one test the voltage at? Accessory power wire?

Electric start sled so maybe different

slide a wire into the 5amp fuse on the oil tank. Ground is just below it on the foot stirrup with the 'star' style lock washer

maxwell · Mar 28, 2020

kingcat162 said:
The plug wires are known to fail - I carry a spare now after it happened to me on the hill - I've also heard starting the sled without gauges plugged in can wreck a coil also - not saying u did that - just heard of that problem also

I haven’t I am aware of that issue, but I bet you the owner has. Coils and stator check Tommorow

Longhairfreak · Mar 29, 2020

Unplug the head light and see if it runs better.

rmk600700 · Mar 29, 2020

Seen similar issue on my etec and can am quad both times fuel pump would drop pressure once it got hot. Ran good for a while then both had a high rpm stumble. Once shut off for a few minutes they would run fine again for a bit.

kingcat162 · Mar 29, 2020

I relocated the white check valve manifold from between intake - relocated it under ecu - $40 part - change it out every 1000kms or so - I carry a spare now - I also t-d into the rave valve vacuum/pressure line and ran it off of throttle body

team dirt · Mar 29, 2020

Pull the fuel pump out and clean or replace the sock filter inside the pump. Has happened to 4 in our group and fixed them right up.

maxwell said:
Not very often I can’t figure these things out myself but I’ve got a friends 2016XM that’s falling on its face at 7000rpm. The sled has 4500km on it.

We have done the following

- rebuilt top end ( compression was down and it was time ) did not resolve issue

- changed injectors
- changed plugs
- inspected reeds And everything else while I had the engine apart
- rave valves cleaned and are operating properly
- checked fuel pressure 40psi and holds to 7000rpm

Not throwing any codes , around 7000rpm it just starts to stumble and lose power.

Only thing we haven’t replaced is the coils and stator

kanedog · Mar 29, 2020

In case you need a fuel pump

maxwell · Mar 29, 2020

team dirt said:
Pull the fuel pump out and clean or replace the sock filter inside the pump. Has happened to 4 in our group and fixed them right up.

Hmm ok! Will add that to the list forsure.

GreyGhost · Mar 30, 2020

maxwell said:
Not sure....wonder how a guy could figure that out.

Now that I think about it, I know what it’s like to drop a cylinder. It’s not like that it definetly seems to be missing on both I’d say.

I kind of agree with everyone that it’s the stator or the pump/filters. Best bet is if you hook up a multimeter and see if you have any or no power at all going to the injectors

gdawg · Mar 31, 2020

I’m having this exact issue right now too. 15 with 4000 km also notice kept carboning up plugs changed them and fuel filters multiple times. Rave valves good. Dealership initially I thought regulator took it in for warranty they said just plugged filter right on right . Ran good for awhile then back to same old lose power seemed when got hot. Shut off let sit was good for awhile but super random would do it then not do it. Kinda same thing in my quad and car when fuel pump went random power loss. More at full throttle yes. Anyways both plugs fouled not just one so brings me to fuel pump . Oh regulator was good. I didn’t test fuel pump bc I’ve heard lots of time they will pass every pressure test drop and it’s still the fuel pump. So let’s rip er out only takes 30/40 mins it’s not bad at all. 3 beers. Took it out the strainer on bottom wasn’t plugged it looked ok. So did everything else. I have a brand new pump from my outlander 800 sitting there which slides right into the ski doo assembly identical pump other then electrical connector . Psi is a little higher in the new pump but regulator should take care of that. That’s project today see how that runs. Worst case still **** and will have to get a proper pump. But it’s worth the gamble at this point like I said the pump is basically identical same size everything I’ll report my findings but I feel like it’s the pump for sure. Hard to diagnose when it’s so random the other day ran good for half hour then **** all day. Yesturday ran good for 5 hours then started acting a little bit. So hopefully this fixes it.

snopro · Mar 31, 2020

Sadly pumps aren't cheap

maxwell · Mar 31, 2020

Are all etec pumps the same I’ve got a few tanks with pumps laying around. Seem to recall they changed the fittings up a bit maybe

snopro · Mar 31, 2020

Not sure Sean. Almost have to physically compare them.

Troublesome XM

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Similar threads