Why buy new?

Teth-Air

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At the same time I would be a little scared if an OEM says we will heli it out of for you. doesn't give me much trust in the machine haha

Are you scared to buy a car or truck because they offer road side assistance? All in how it is marketed.
 

niner

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We had a brand new 97 summit blow the engine first trip out. Had a hard time getting it out and cracked the hood. The dealer ( Camrose Cycle) paid for a new hood. Some dealers just know how to keep customers happy.
 

pistoncontracting

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Spoke to the dealer on the phone. Came to the conclusion that I ride too hard to have warranty. He said I must be "pinned all the time" (LOL). Polaris has no record of my sled ever being at this dealer, so I guess I'll try again. If you have to know the dealer I'll say it in PM.

Well there's your problem. If you bought an 850, you wouldn't need to be pinned all the time :cool:
 

takethebounce

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Took sled to a proper dealer. Warranty claim put in and approved in less than 24 hours. Don't do business with dealers that SUCK.

Warranty Claims are literally an “ask” item online for Polaris service departments.

They submit the work order with the VIN online to the Polaris system and someone on the other end reviews it and either approves or denies a claim. It can come back in as little as 15 mins or as long as 24 hours. Sometimes they want further evidence like photos and such.

When something is denied the dealer can escalate it and request further review but some service departments just don’t bother. Just last week I had an exhaust valve failure which was not the relays and it went in for almost 5 hours of tech time. Ended up being corrosion on some wires. Is that warranty? They could have said no as a part didn’t fail but the dealer sent it in regardless and it was approved and only had to pay the deductible.

I have had the same experience with Doo when getting items warrantied. Photos of reeds were requested and sent off and approved.

I don’t doubt that you get a variety of people sitting behind a desk at corporate approving or denying warranty requests. Having a good dealer who will push back is important but having a dealer who won’t even hit the send button on their computer is a dealer worth staying away from.
 

tex78

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Warranty Claims are literally an “ask” item online for Polaris service departments.

They submit the work order with the VIN online to the Polaris system and someone on the other end reviews it and either approves or denies a claim. It can come back in as little as 15 mins or as long as 24 hours. Sometimes they want further evidence like photos and such.

When something is denied the dealer can escalate it and request further review but some service departments just don’t bother. Just last week I had an exhaust valve failure which was not the relays and it went in for almost 5 hours of tech time. Ended up being corrosion on some wires. Is that warranty? They could have said no as a part didn’t fail but the dealer sent it in regardless and it was approved and only had to pay the deductible.

I have had the same experience with Doo when getting items warrantied. Photos of reeds were requested and sent off and approved.

I don’t doubt that you get a variety of people sitting behind a desk at corporate approving or denying warranty requests. Having a good dealer who will push back is important but having a dealer who won’t even hit the send button on their computer is a dealer worth staying away from.
That was on your Axys??

That's the 4th one I have heard of with wiring harness issues - replaced

Only 16 and seems to be early ones
 

jhurkot

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16-17 rmk will be dirt cheap. At or under $10k they are a great deal. If you buy a 2016 do this.

Tape/seal up the gaps at the bottom of the headlight and the first vent below the headlight on the clutch side.
Make sure coolant hose bracket is on (Polaris update) to stop it from rubbing on the recoil bolt.
Relocate the 2 relays near the pipe to face upwards and grease the backside of them.
While you're at it just take everything apart for electrical and grease and clean the corrosion off.
Replace the bottom quick drive bolt with a heavy duty bolt and blue loctite upper and lower bolts at 45 ft/lbs.
Run the track to spec in the manual. 5/8" slack 16 inches infront of the rear axle with 10 pounds of force down.
Order skidoo hand warmer corking and put it under the heating elements so you don't freeze to death when it's cold.
Blow the primary clutch out with compressed air every ride if you can.

After 3 of these sleds and about 7000 miles on the chassis this is what I've learned so far. Don't expect to high mark cats and doos they will kill you on any wide open climb, so try and get them into the trees.
 

AreWeThereYet

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16-17 rmk will be dirt cheap. At or under $10k they are a great deal. If you buy a 2016 do this.

Tape/seal up the gaps at the bottom of the headlight and the first vent below the headlight on the clutch side.
Make sure coolant hose bracket is on (Polaris update) to stop it from rubbing on the recoil bolt.
Relocate the 2 relays near the pipe to face upwards and grease the backside of them.
While you're at it just take everything apart for electrical and grease and clean the corrosion off.
Replace the bottom quick drive bolt with a heavy duty bolt and blue loctite upper and lower bolts at 45 ft/lbs.
Run the track to spec in the manual. 5/8" slack 16 inches infront of the rear axle with 10 pounds of force down.
Order skidoo hand warmer corking and put it under the heating elements so you don't freeze to death when it's cold.
Blow the primary clutch out with compressed air every ride if you can.

After 3 of these sleds and about 7000 miles on the chassis this is what I've learned so far. Don't expect to high mark cats and doos they will kill you on any wide open climb, so try and get them into the trees.


No spark plugs backing out, I know of 3 machines that have this issue.
 

Teth-Air

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16-17 rmk will be dirt cheap. At or under $10k they are a great deal. If you buy a 2016 do this.

Tape/seal up the gaps at the bottom of the headlight and the first vent below the headlight on the clutch side.
Make sure coolant hose bracket is on (Polaris update) to stop it from rubbing on the recoil bolt.
Relocate the 2 relays near the pipe to face upwards and grease the backside of them.
While you're at it just take everything apart for electrical and grease and clean the corrosion off.
Replace the bottom quick drive bolt with a heavy duty bolt and blue loctite upper and lower bolts at 45 ft/lbs.
Run the track to spec in the manual. 5/8" slack 16 inches infront of the rear axle with 10 pounds of force down.
Order skidoo hand warmer corking and put it under the heating elements so you don't freeze to death when it's cold.
Blow the primary clutch out with compressed air every ride if you can.

After 3 of these sleds and about 7000 miles on the chassis this is what I've learned so far. Don't expect to high mark cats and doos they will kill you on any wide open climb, so try and get them into the trees.

Johnny what about clipping the track and putting on the Arm Candy A-Arm braces and a tether?
 

catalac

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In 20 years of buying toys mostly every used piece I’ve bought has been costly, I think only thing I’ve owned without issue from used is a 2015 T3, touch wood.

I’ve sold a few headaches which in turn means I’ve bought a few headaches, companies that have decent warranty from new are my first choice.
 

jhurkot

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Johnny what about clipping the track and putting on the Arm Candy A-Arm braces and a tether?


Yes to all 3 of those as well. Since you saved a bunch of money buying a holdover sled might as well chuck a TKI belt drive and MTNTK blowhole in as well. However I would not mount the blowhole the way the manufacturer says. There is another way to mount it that is much better.
 
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