Removing Front Track Shock?

fnDan

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This setup drives me insane.
Tightened both and hit the stuck side with the impact to break free but now I can either get one bolt or the other.
Any tips or tricks? I think it's crazy that there's no way to hold the shaft.
 

skegpro

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Agreed.
This setup is a nightmare.

I had to once put locktight back onto the loose one and the hit them both at the same time with an impact.

If you think it isn't that tight, try blue locktight.
But if it hasn't moved at all hit it with red again.

Beer.
Impact.
Beer.
Beer.
Impact.
Repeat.
 

skegpro

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Oh and I forgot.

There is also a drain hole the the front suspension arm that you can kinda jam a punch into to stop the shaft from rotating.

Your bringing back horrible memories.

But a better suspension is worth the trouble.
 

dgjordan

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Two impacts.loosten at the same time.and also use a blowtorch to heat both sides before you do it.keep at it.it will come out with patience.
 

coolcam

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Drill a hole in the shaft to line up with that drain hole once you get it out and next time it won't be a problem.
 

fnDan

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Thanks. Just me working in this today so no help with impacts on both sides.
It took quite some time to finally get both out.
 

jpmez69

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Engineering courtesy of Quebecois!

Soooo...........you're saying every other manufacturer uses right handed threads on one side and left handed on the other? Sure thing kane. I'm saying that sarcastically btw. From your comments I can tell you need all the help you can get in understanding basic communication.
 

coolcam

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Can't say I would drill a shaft as it becomes a weak point and could break. JS

I thought about that before I started doing it and I don't think it's a problem. Only axial load on that shaft at the ends where the bushings ride. There is some tension on it when the tunnel spreads but it's minimal unless you twist the tunnel hitting something. Haven't had any problems with mine and I think the small risk is worth not having to battle the spinning frustrations. It's an option though. It only has to be big enough to get a small Allen key through.
 

Rotax_Kid

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Short track skids from BRP have been way nicer to work on. SC4/5 had arms that had no cross brace at the bolt hole and used a big nut on the back side. Cat and Doo's race skids have the nicest setups...cross shaft is solid and a chennel slides into it like a cassette. Only the rear arm bolts kedp the skid help in place. Can drop a skid out in 5 mins with that setup.
 

Pistonbroke

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Take one bolt all the way out. Install a nut on that bolt. Install bolt back in part of the way. Tighten bolt down on chassis. Remove the other bolt. loosen nut and remove that bolt.

That’s just brilliant!

For years I have worked back and forth to get them both cracked loose, then go back and forth till the impact will zing them out.
 
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