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JZ1
Active VIP Member
Why's that?
Advice on a 2013 pro rmk
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Why's that?
007sevens
Active VIP Member
Just a Dootard, they would like all men to cuddle and group hug in the hot tub.
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JZ1
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Lol. My doo had treated me well but it's all I've ever known. I just happen to stumble across 13 pro for $5000, seems like a good deal. Most of the 13 and newer Doo's I've seen are in the $7000 area. I don't need a new sled but if I can get one 2 years newer and less miles than my doo why not.
are the pro rmk chassis as good if not better than the Xms?
007sevens
Active VIP Member
I agree, with this. What fits for one may not the next. Any of the sleds bought today are good sleds. Polaris may be cheaper then the DOO but DOO may also have longevity over Polaris.
DV-ENT
Active VIP Member
I have a 2013 pro, put some better pistons in it turn the oil pump right up and ride it. I have 4500 km on this sled and it hasnt missed a beat.
XanderKane
Active member
I had a 2011 pro with 3300 miles with stock pistons. Same with my 14 pro and now a 15 pro with 1000 miles. Indy Dan recently posted a thread on snowest stating that if your sled runs good don't touch the engine. It's a good read.
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Xanderkane could you please direct me to that article. I would love to read it.
Bang on. If you haven't done it before have someone show you how to do it the first time. I leaned the hard way on mine that I don't have the proper equipment to trim rings. Had to tears it down, buy new pistons, hone the cylinder and put it back together. If you have the Polaris service manual and the right tools, torque wrench, circlip pliers, ect. it's an easy job. First time took me at least 8 hours going slow. Second was 4 tops. As many have mentioned it wakes the sled up, I run 2 gram heavier weights now as it revs quicker with the lighter pistons.
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
13's seemed to be hit and miss on the skirt issue. Maybe some early releases still used old stock?
13's also had a crappy quick drive belt. If it's original it likely could use the updated one that is kept in stock everywhere now.
Also the quick drive pulley bolts need to be upgraded.
The Pro is a completely different sled than your Doo. If I recall you ride a lot of trails maybe Cataract creek and other like areas. The Pro's do not have a front cooler and will run hot on trails if you are not used to jumping off trail to cool them down.
13's also had a crappy quick drive belt. If it's original it likely could use the updated one that is kept in stock everywhere now.
Also the quick drive pulley bolts need to be upgraded.
The Pro is a completely different sled than your Doo. If I recall you ride a lot of trails maybe Cataract creek and other like areas. The Pro's do not have a front cooler and will run hot on trails if you are not used to jumping off trail to cool them down.
XanderKane
Active member
For those of you who aren't snowest subscribers here's the post:
I know since 2008 the Polairs 800 Small block has cause a flurry of this question...............
When should I replace my Pistons or top end ?
And if I do who's Pistons should I use ?
Indy Specialties advice is as follows.
If it runs perfect, and has the same power, and holds the exact same RPM as it did when it was new ( DON'T TOUCH IT ) I don't care how many miles are on it.
If performance is down ( FIRST AND FOREMOST ) Make sure your drive clutch is in good condition, your belt is in good condition, and the driven clutch is adjusted so the sled has the correct belt deflection.
If you get your a$$ handed to you by another sled on the same make & model your first move should NOT be replacing the Pistons.....
If you have not address ( THE FIRST & FOREMOST ) questions you have reason to touch the motor !
I have been building Polaris motors for over 30 years and I can promise you one thing for sure.....
More 2008 thru 2017 Polaris 800 motors have failed because of premature piston replacement with an aftermarket piston.
Indy Specialty sells more OEM Pistons and top end kits to people that just got done doing a fresh piston replacement and didn't make it 500 miles then any stock OEM original Pistons. ( my motors included until 10/15/2015 ) * poor honing procedures ruin everything.
My list of questions when we get the call goes as follows.......
1-was the motor running when freshened it up ? Most often ( Yes )
2-were the Pistons that came out stock OEM ? Most often ( Yes )
3-how did they look ? Most often ( they looked great )
4-how many miles were on it ? Range 1000 to 12,500 miles ( yes a few customers have had over 12,000 miles the stock OEM Pistons ( all have Been dragons )
5-my next question is...... After you answered questions 1 thru 4 do you really need to ask me what Pistons I recommend for your Polaris motor....
To finish off the with one last promise....
If you take 90 used Polaris 800 sleds....
That's 9 groups of 10 sleds model year 2008 thru 2017
These 9 groups of 10 sleds all get a fresh rebuilds
All get brand new OEM cylinders.
Group 1 - cast OEM Polaris factory Pistons
Group 2 - cast SPI factory import copy
Group 3 - cast SPX factory import copy
Group 4 - cast Kimpex factory import copy
Group 5 - cast OEM Arctic 800 converted for Polaris
Group 6 - cast prox factory copy
Group 7- domestic forged wiseco
Group 8- international import forged Woosner
Group 9- cat domestic forged wiseco converted for Polaris
Believe it or not there more options I have not listed.
Ok we 90 fresh rebuilt sleds with Brand new OEM cylinders.
They all get parked outside in a row for 5 days at ZERO degrees Fahrenheit
They all get started at the same time and are allowed to idle until water temp hits 70 degrees and at that moment they are all held wide open for 1 mile.
Group 1 thru 6 will all mostly likely make it ( why I say mostly likely ) I have not personally run.... Cast Kimpex, cast SPX, cast cat OEM, cast cat copy.
Group 7,8,&9 will all lock the motor before the 1/2 miles mark... The Cat copy forged will not make the it past the 1/4 mark.
How do I know this you may ask..... The factory Polaris cast OEM piston 2008 thru 2017 has over .008 thou more taper from bottom to top then any of the other non-Polaris copies......
The SPX,SPI,PROX Polaris copies have close to the same taper..
All the other Pistons forged or cast are close to .008 bigger at the top then
OEM Polaris Pistons.
( there is a chance the cat OEM & OEM copy won't make the mile mark but they will go far past the forged.
Why ? Simple......it's a mono block with a very narrow center to center 128mm....... ( poor water flow around the exhaust port ) holds a bunch of heat on the front of the piston.
The simple reason turbo applications tuned properly piston life is over double a normally aspirated motors...... The turbo pushes air thru the motor keeps the heat moving.
Polaris Pistons are the most expensive with almost ( NO MARGINE for profit )
That why no one wants to sell them.
Poor plated honing procedures & poor cylinder finish has been the main reason for factory OEM failures of the past. ( the factory OEM finish across the industry has gotten so much better. ) I once thought impossible to match of beat. HG7 if to date the best i personally have seen.
( Of which Indy Specialty was Quilty of from 2005 till Oct 14th 2015 )
All the theories on cast iron cylinder honing do not apply to plated cylinders. * ( The smoother the better. ) ZERO cross hatch needed ) *
I believe if you are selling engine rebuild services to any customers with plated cylinders with cylinder mounted EFI systems you better have invested a minimum of $50,000 yo $150,000 in updated equipment so you can give customer a cylinder finish to at least as good as the factory finish with the goal to be better then the factory.
The EFI plated cylinder Polaris has brought on a steep learning curve for a lot of us.
This is the reason we offered all previous customers pre-October 15th 2015
Free updated HG7 cylinder finish with a No charge 1 year extension added on to your warranty.
Thanks to all Indy Specialty customers for your business !
Dan
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