XP - Common Issues/Maintenance and good Upgrades

maxwell

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Figured i would start a thread with some tips and common issues i have run into on the xp. please post your issue you have come accross or a maintenance tip you may have. maybe it can be a sticky

I will keep editing this top post. add a photo if you like aswell. i consider this a living document and hopefully we can all make it grow....prefrably shrink but you know what i mean ;)

2008 XP

- Fraying oil Pump Cable - Replace!! please check this asap. a machine i was working on was hanging on by 1 strand. new cable has a black cover where it comes out of the housing. this has happened on a few 2009 sleds also.

- Primary Clutch spring cover - replace with part # #417222759

- Clutch Alignment - If you are burning belts consider dropping to a smaller gear ratio on the summits and install a jackshaft shim kit to correctly align the secondary clutch. you can get this kit from John@ Sledheadracing Sled Head Racing -- Home

- Drive Shaft - Check to ensure your driveshaft has been replaced under the BRP safety recall. OR have it milled and welded for extra strength. About an hours labour at any performance shop.


2009 XP

Fraying oil Pump Cable - Replace!! please check this asap. a machine i was working on was hanging on by 1 strand. new cable has a black cover where it comes out of the housing. this has happened on a few 2009 sleds also.




2010 XP

- Check Pull Cord Knot - :(


2011 XP

-nothing so far!!

ALL XP

- Fuel Tank rubs on coolers - remove the tank and place a thin layer of rubber matting. i have seen this rubbing so bad it was almost worn through the cooler. in the photo you can see the 10 spots worn almost through this 2009 xp with 2000km.


- Y-Pipe Bolts - Frequently come loose and require tightening every few rides or replace washers with nordlocks.

- Leaking Oil Tank - Install Insert from Dan. you can contact him at DAN_03REV@YAHOO.COM.

dan03rev2009.jpg

- Front Cooler Mounting - Check the 4 rivets holding the bottom of the front cooler. these frequently come loose or break off. replace the rivets or if your engine is removed replace with panhead bolts and lock nuts. if you have more than 500km on your xp this is already loose

- Handlebar switch assembely - There is an opening on the back which can allow snow to build up inside. this will cause your machine to act up and go in and out of reverse possibly.

- Spindle Bushings -if you have over 500km on your sled and havent added grease chances are they are already shot. take the ski off and ensure the pin still has a tight fit inside the bushings. if so then coat it with grease and reinstall. do this at least once per season. the best solution is to tap a grease fitting into the spindle. there is a cavity in the center which works perfect.
untitled.jpg

- Motor Mounts - Have not seen this myself but have read about motor mount tabs and bolt heads breaking off. this will cause excess vibration and belt wear.

- Rear Sespension Sag - Although mostly an issue with the 08/09 models the solution is to install the next stiffest spring. the part #s for replacement of factory equipment are...

HD springs LH:503191289
HD spring RH: 503191287


installing these torsion spacers also makes the coil more efficient

Next option for 08/08 models is the 2010 upgrade package from brp. about 600$ coems with new rails,shock,valving,rockerarm.
BRP Part # 860200404



Specifications

- Belt (mountain) - skidoo 377 2008-2011
- Spark Plugs - BR9ECS
- Head Bolt Torque 800R - 21 Ft/Lbs
- Cylinder Bolt Torque 800R - 37 Ft/Lbs
- Clutch Bolt Torque 800R - 89 Ft/Lbs (retorque after short ride)

Proven Upgrades

- Hps Can
- Challenger extreme 2.5" track
- DJ Clutch Kit / Roosterbuilt Clutch Kit
- Motts Machining Quick Clickers -
- XXXmodRods Vent kit -
- STM Belt Adjuster for 08/09 sleds - CLICK
- STM Belt Adjuster for 2010 sleds - CLICK
- Tunnel Stiffeners -
- DOO DOCTOR Floating QRS..stop burning belts and creating belt dust. also makes it easier to work on the machine.CLICK Video

Tech Videos

Doo Doctor Floating QRS
Dynamo Joe Clutch Maintenance PT 1
Dynamo Joe Clutch Maintenance PT 2
Dynamo Joe Clutch Maintenance PT 3
Dynamo Joe Clutch Maintenance PT 4
 
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DaveB

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There was an issue with a stator wire rubbing through on the 08's causing no run syndrome.

Another proven mod: DooDoctor floating secondary.
 

DaveB

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I don't have an 08...I just remember reading about it....behind the muffler looking down and to the left in the engine compartment there was a wire that sometimes rested across a sharp rivet.

Got a few rides last season and one this year on the DD secondary. Seems solid.
 
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DaveB

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2010 Race manual---Wire dia--------open angle---------N-mm/degree

503-190-712/714-------8.85-------------75*-----------------1.13--------Soft Summit

503-191-251/253-------9.86-------------100*----------------1.84--------?

503-191-287/289-------9.52--------------80*----------------1.44---------Heavy Summit (seem to be most popular)

503-192-080/081-------8.85--------------80*----------------1.27---------Stock Summit

503-192-136/137-------9------------------80*----------------1.35---------Stock Tundra Lt

503-192-270/271-------9.86--------------80*-----------------1.66---------Heavy Tundra Lt

503-191-481/483-------11x9.25-----------100*---------------2.3----------?

These are all listed for the SC-5m suspension
 

Dynacorkle

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They also have "heat soaking" issues and clutch towers ripping off. I use the Racewerx brace and did away with the thermostat housing and replaced it with pvc elbows to solve the heat soaking. I know somebody out there makes a new thermostat housing so you can run a cooler thermostat from an older Rev.
 

maxwell

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engine tech makes the thermostat. id like to hear some more results from it before i add it to the list. seems for 400$ all it does it drop the temperature a couple degrees on the trail. i dont understand how a sled can heatsoak in high snow conditions.
 

DaveB

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I have the ET thermostat. Also a good piece. The stock t-stat keeps bypassing the coolers until around 150 degrees...not good.
 

Dynacorkle

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Hard to believe you wouldn't have had any heatsoak issues. Take a long climb up a slope come back down and the sled feels kinda lame, like you lost 20 horse. Doesn't sound familiar? It's because the ecu took some timing out to compensate for the exsessive temp. The thermostat opens late, and the head doesn't flow enough coolant and of course the single ring piston doesn't tranfer enough heat to the cylinder walls. I believe the stock thermo doesn't even open fully until 170 deg.
 

Dynacorkle

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I just went on the Engine tech website, the housing is $150, but i think you still have to buy the thermostat. Not too bad i guess, it is billet.
 

nielsy

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anybody that got their updates done this problem should have been fixed
 
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