XP - Common Issues/Maintenance and good Upgrades

maxwell

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I have a 09 xp 800 and it bogged at 6500 rpms .took it to a dealer they had it for 1 1/2 months. cleaned the carbs 3 times nothing helped . finaly they replace the dpm and it ran fine for 400 kms.Took it out last weekend for the first time. ran ok for 25kms and then acted up the same as last year:mad: any one had issues with the dpm???? ..

have had the soilenoid seize on me on other sleds but not yet on the xp.

im sure there was a service bulletin somewhere about lubricating the solenoid...
 

flabbajabba

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if you smoke a rock or such real hard, braces won't help that much, they will definitely help in smaller impacts as will aftermarket a arms that are strong, lighter and usually break before tunnel. a arms are usually easier to replace.

anyone have rave valves break?

You are correct its easier but is it cheaper? (A Arms)How much is a front shock? After market A Arms are large $$$. (The ones I've seen). The two rocks I hit, I hit HARD one my fault(brain fart) I rode it the rest of the season bent. I was pretty impressed with how it stood up after a big impact.
 

imdoo'n

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you can't be serious, ever price out a tunnel, usually right your sled off with bent tunnel, a-arm 150.00 +/-, also with a bent tunnel you will usually be repairing a-arm and shocks plus more. you may be having another brain fart.
 

flabbajabba

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you can't be serious, ever price out a tunnel, usually right your sled off with bent tunnel, a-arm 150.00 +/-, also with a bent tunnel you will usually be repairing a-arm and shocks plus more. you may be having another brain fart.

LOL :beer: maybe I didn't say it right.
What I was trying to say was If you brace up the thing so the front doesn't bend it would wreak the tunnel. If the braces hold up till the A arm rips off I would guess you'd be buying a combo of (A arm-upper and lower+shock+spindle) is that cheaper then the nun? Mine was $165+ my labour to change it.(nun only) I paid $100 to get the 2 ball joints put in the A arms. No one is ever going to break the same stuff. But I still question what I "want" to break. The after market A arms I looked at are $475 (Holtz) I can do my nun and E for that. I totally agree with the don't bend the tunnel thats why I don't have the braces. I need somthing to give before the tunnel bends.

I think the best thing is to stop hitting rocks! But I haven't figured out how to do that yet.:d
 

imdoo'n

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i'm with you on that, i don't want to bend stuff but it happens, easier to change a arm than the nun or e module. time is money and i don't have time to change tunnels, e-modules or am willing to pay someone to do it. a-arm can be a pain but much less .
 

dbar7

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- Handlebar switch assembely - There is an opening on the back which can allow snow to build up inside. this will cause your machine to act up and go in and out of reverse possibly.
Mine does this to me all the time its a real pain... How do you fix it from happening?
 

Grizzly4323

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2000 plus Kms. Have a look at primary sheave and tower bushings. Cheap fix if you catch it. If they are in good shape they should slide with a bit of force. Otherwise a very costly repair.
 

Grizzly4323

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- Handlebar switch assembely - There is an opening on the back which can allow snow to build up inside. this will cause your machine to act up and go in and out of reverse possibly.
Mine does this to me all the time its a real pain... How do you fix it from happening?

Had the same problem. My kid now carries a small can of WD-40. Spray directly inside and "Whaallaa" problem solved. Seems that moisture gets in there and creates a contact problem. WD works!! Displaces the moisture. Try it!! Learned that from an old snowmobile mechanic when it kept going into reverse. Let me know how it works for you. Good Luck..
 

Grizzly4323

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- Handlebar switch assembely - There is an opening on the back which can allow snow to build up inside. this will cause your machine to act up and go in and out of reverse possibly.
Mine does this to me all the time its a real pain... How do you fix it from happening?

Another thing that I have done. If you can let your sled dry out real good. Use LPS Silicone lubricant. Spray directly into the opening and let dry. I do this everytime I let the sled dry out. Puts a light coating on the wires and eliminated the problem all together. Still have a small can of WD in your pack just in case the problem reoccurs.
 

flabbajabba

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- Handlebar switch assembely - There is an opening on the back which can allow snow to build up inside. this will cause your machine to act up and go in and out of reverse possibly.
Mine does this to me all the time its a real pain... How do you fix it from happening?

Add the torx wrench to your tool kit to open the switch up if it happens on the trail its a real PITA. If you unplug it the hand warmers still work( on a X) and it can get you out of the trail.
 

dbar7

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Right on thanks guys I was also told if you throw electrical grease would keep water from getting to the connections so im gonna try it out and see how that works and gonna throw some wd in my pac... hopefully it will fix that annoying problem
 

Sleeper700

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My Oil Pump Cable was frayed badly on my 08 when I removed the engine yesterday. Looks like I need the updated cable....
 

Sleeper700

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Here's a pic. It frayed right at the oil pump (bare wire from the mount to the pump). It is not connected to the oil pump right now, as I have to replace the crank...
 

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flabbajabba

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Here's a pic. It frayed right at the oil pump (bare wire from the mount to the pump). It is not connected to the oil pump right now, as I have to replace the crank...

Mine looked the same! It sucks it is so hard to see that unless you have the motor out or the carbs off I don't know how you would ever see it!
 

Sleeper700

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I can't believe that ski-doo could screw up something as simple as a oil pump cable. I wonder where these parts are getting made????
 
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