1 Etec topend rebuilt now onto another problem with another one

new24stroke · Jan 10, 2021

So I was doing about 80 km and blew the belt in half on my sled. I replaced it with the new spare. Now I used to be able to cruise 6900 rpm and get 80 kph. Now it’s like 7100 rpm to get 80 kph. Also when I cold started it this morning it stalled several times while trying to warm up. It’s also stalling when going into reverse. Anyone have any ideas. I did some reading and guys say the belt maybe too tight.

AreWeThereYet · Jan 10, 2021

Check your crank seal shaft to make sure you didn't wrap any belt cords around it. Belt could be tight, always best to adjust deflection when you can after replacing

new24stroke · Jan 11, 2021

Problem has been resolved. Belt was way too tight

new24stroke · Jan 13, 2021

Well looks like my problem has not be resolved. The sled is still popping and farting while warming up. It sometimes even quits. Things that have been checked are. Compression is good 160 pounds (Powder Freak Head) and the reed are in good shape. Sled runs good when it’s warmed up. None of this stuff happed until after I blew my belt. Any ideas.

NoBrakes! · Jan 13, 2021

stator issue. not making enough power to keep running into reverse, stalling, and not enough spark energy to light off at idle causing the pop/fart?

NoBrakes! · Jan 13, 2021

my friend had a 12 that would do similar things, and we scratched our heads for a bit. found the recoil had broken a bolt head off and that head was in the stator... ruined it all. also the magnet inside the flywheel can come loose on early etecs and cut the wiring inside, causing weird issues. I would have a look at that side.

I know, i know, this seems to be my go to etec 800 answer....

I was always told if your sled is doing weird things and you cant put your finger on it, check the primary spring... may have a broken coil you cant see....

new24stroke · Jan 13, 2021

Not sure if stator is the issue. Once the machine is warm it idles perfectly

team dirt · Jan 13, 2021

new24stroke said:
Not sure if stator is the issue. Once the machine is warm it idles perfectly

I would pop your clutch off and make sure your crank seal isn’t damaged.

AreWeThereYet · Jan 13, 2021

Well for starters I would let it get cold, fire it up and feel the y-pipe to see which one is colder,.. to determine a problem side, change plug, then go from there

new24stroke · Jan 13, 2021

Brand new plugs. I had them changed right when I started having this problem

AreWeThereYet · Jan 13, 2021

new24stroke said:
Brand new plugs. I had them changed right when I started having this problem

Doesn't rule out if you have a bad cylinder, if one side is colder you know you have a place to start, fuel, spark or other

new24stroke · Jan 14, 2021

Well dealer could not find anything wrong. They went out this morning and it fired right up no issues except still stall once and awhile going into reverse. They check all the sensors, compression, reeds , looked at the pistons , belt deflection, reset the tps sensor. Only thing they think may cause the issue is because I put a high compression head on that it maybe leaking by the rings a bit and pressurizing the crankcase. So I’m going to ride it and see what happens.

gofast89 · Jan 14, 2021

I have similar issues but even when the stock head was on it. Mine idle awesome cold but tough getting into reverse. Mine hunts rpm bad when warm. Short block was done on warranty a few years ago but very few miles since. Found bad reeds but still does it. Ever since short block I’ve been chasing a p1478(reeds not fully open) code too. Found my check valve manifold bad (pressure side check valve is leaking) hoping to replace this and new plugs and helps

NoBrakes! · Jan 14, 2021

that check valve is a head ache for a lot of guys on this site

Stevemtb · Jan 14, 2021

Sorry to briefly hijack but you guys seem knowledgeable on this... I’m doing the top end in my Summit XM right now and don’t want to pull the whole motor. It looks like the cylinder will come out without removing the secondary but that one bolt on the reed boot is right close to the clutch tower. Do I have to pull the secondary and the tower to get that one friggen bolt out?

gofast89 · Jan 14, 2021

Stevemtb said:
Sorry to briefly hijack but you guys seem knowledgeable on this... I’m doing the top end in my Summit XM right now and don’t want to pull the whole motor. It looks like the cylinder will come out without removing the secondary but that one bolt on the reed boot is right close to the clutch tower. Do I have to pull the secondary and the tower to get that one friggen bolt out?

I pulled pto side engine mount bolts and flexed the motor up enough to do that little guy when I replaced reeds

new24stroke · Jan 14, 2021

Stevemtb said:
Sorry to briefly hijack but you guys seem knowledgeable on this... I’m doing the top end in my Summit XM right now and don’t want to pull the whole motor. It looks like the cylinder will come out without removing the secondary but that one bolt on the reed boot is right close to the clutch tower. Do I have to pull the secondary and the tower to get that one friggen bolt out?

i just completed a topend on my buddies Etec. The secondary is easy to remove. Pull the plastic vent off the chain case side. There is a 15 mil holding the sprocket on remove it. Behind the secondary is a collar that holds the bearing in place. Remove the 13 mil bolt and the retainer should come out. Once that is done shove a bid socket extension through the sprocket and out comes the secondary. Now you can remove the bolt from the reed

Stevemtb · Jan 14, 2021

Thanks fellas. Used both of your recommendations as each by itself didn’t give quite enough space. Didn’t have to take the clutch tower off and that’s what I was trying to avoid because it’s an awkward b1tch to get back in.

Highjacker out!

vanislerev · Jan 15, 2021

Pull that primary off and change that PTO crank seal. I picked up a 15 with 1500 km on it this year. Second ride melted the PTO piston. Found the PTO crank seal broke in two pieces. Called previous owner and he had blown a belt a couple of rides before he sold it. Had great compression when I bought it. You could be lean on that hole now which is why it won’t switch into reverse

gofast89 · Jan 17, 2021

Changed my plugs and my rave valve check valve manifold. Can’t test my rave valve issue down low, going to need to make a trip for that but ran a few laps around the yard to warm her up and still hunted rpm at idle warm. Just about to bring back in the shop and engine light came on. P1428 and 1429 codes come up(basically bad tuned pipe sensor). Just replaced that this morning and again ran around yard to warm up. No more codes and idles better at temp. Going into reverse it still stumbles once in awhile tho

1 Etec topend rebuilt now onto another problem with another one

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