Tree riding skid setup ideas

dbest

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Limiter in hole 3. FTS at 50 pounds and RTS at 130, down from 160, and evol at 160. rebound is at 0 for now but I would like to fine tune with the rebound. Sled worked well so didn't change anything else.
 

Lund

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Limiter in hole 3. FTS at 50 pounds and RTS at 130, down from 160, and evol at 160. rebound is at 0 for now but I would like to fine tune with the rebound. Sled worked well so didn't change anything else.

An important thing to remember is to allow a loose limiter strap but also to set it so it limits the front arm travel from limiting out using the front center shock as this will eventually lead to shock failure or damage.
The REAL purpose to the limit straps is to limit the front arm travel from pulling on the center shock damaging it.
 

Lund

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An important thing to remember is to allow a loose limiter strap but also to set it so it limits the front arm travel from limiting out using the front center shock as this will eventually lead to shock failure or damage.
The REAL purpose to the limit straps is to limit the front arm travel from pulling on the center shock damaging it.

The best way to setup the center strap is to lift the sled off the ground or roll it on its side.
Disconnect the the strap and allow the center shock arm assembly to relax.
Then apply a small amount of push pressure to the front of the rail so to not allow the center shock to be stretched out to the max.
Then rebolt the limit strap, in most or many cases i have drilled a new hole in the limit strap for a proper setting.
Now the limit strap will not allow the center shock to be stretched to the max and yet give you the maximum rail contact and legs.
 

toyz

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my limiter is set at stock position. My rear spring was at max and my front rear was at min, both stock shocks. They are now at the middle on both. I found when side hilling and hitting big ruts do not get tossed near as bad. also will go from side to side instantly with out much work. I did not find a difference with climbing steep hills, no extra ski lift. still going to play more.
 

jackdanels

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A little late to the show on this one, but I completely agree with Lund's setup. I ran this set up for years on my 09 XP.

I upgraded to the 2010+ longer center shock, which completely solved the wheelie problems with these sleds IMO.

Back to the point, 2 XP's I set up this way, 156" x 3" longer center shock cranked up, limiter straps as loose as possible, heavier torsion springs set on softest settings. Mine was a 2.5" track when I did that, wasn't a wheelie monster, but made it super nimble, skis never rose that high. Before I did the shock upgrade to my brothers sled he had his limiter cranked down to limit wheeling, and it handled like a Rev in the trees. After the shock upgrade, straps loose, shock tight, heavier springs loose, no more wheelies, super nimble, he couldn't believe how much better it was, like a totally different sled. I've got a 3" on my XP now, same setup, skis never in the air (unless I want them to be) and as nimble as you can get an XP to be (almost as good as an XM with the same setup)

Now I assume you're talking about your 13 xm, so center shock is irrelevant to you, as you already have it (2010+). IMO limiter as loose as possible, center shock cranked up and rear torsion springs as loose as possible, but tight enough to minimize sag, you want the rear to sack out (but not too much) otherwise you just trench. Kinda like a quad, or bike, if your rear suspension is too tight you just spin (trenching).
 
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