A bunch of us (12) will be skiing and sledding in the little sand drainage from the 28-30. We are all AST and carry radios if you are in that area come to the grizzly basin cabin and introduce yourself. We will be there for 3 days.
Geoff
A glass shop will cut you a piece of 'MarGard' which has a little bit harder coating on the polycarbonate (Trade name Lexan) to reduce scratches. You can buy the straps to mount it to the tubes via EMP i think. Polycarbonate can be treated like plywood. cut/drill/sand it just as you would wood.
He probably means the plastic plug doesn't go back in behind the rubber condom. All these LED's have either a big fan on them or a giant braided heat sync. That has prevented me from putting the plug back into the bulb housing without punching out the plastic to push the components back in.
Running a 2015 summit 154 with about 700 km. Riding currently at 6-8000 ft. On hard pack trail the machine bounces off the rev limiter on click 3 and won't pull past 6500 rpm in powder. Tried pulling clicker back to 2 and still bangs off the rev limiter and bogs even worse in the powder. Ran...
Just watching the snotel's across the area shows they have above average snow for sure. Google yellowstone webcams and it gives you a good idea of what's in town.
I bought a set of fanless bulbs off a guy in Kijiji from Calgary and they swear to the holy ghost they are Cree XML emitters and are 4800 LM a bulb. That's the highest LM output I could find right now.
I didn't even notice you were running a skidoo add on bar. I know people that run them and they have stock bulbs and say the LED bar works really well, but if you upgrade your headlights i don't think you'll need the additional lamp.
And the link you posted says 18000 LM? I would say thats...
I recently swapped out to LED too and if you don't put the rubber condom back on it will fog up the housing. The housing isn't waterproofed by the bulb its sealed by the rubber cap. I ran without the cap and the hot air from the motor runs right into your housing and fogs them up. The LED's...
I already have 2 puxing radios and 2 rinos. We find the rinos work best if you have newbies because if you can talk to them on the radio, you can see their position on a map. Puxing just lets us use Kenwood mics which i find are better than the junk you can buy for the Rino. Must better...
So we have a group that runs 4 of these radios, and we've had nothing but problems with all of them for 2 seasons. One guy is totally fed up and is taking them back. They work for about an hour, and then after they seem to get cold, they won't transmit except for a quick blip. To me it seems...
Re: Frequency List/CHIRP Image for Sledding & Baofeng Radios
all i can find is a map close to the lower mainland.
anybody have any luck with finding anything closer to the rockies?
Re: Frequency List/CHIRP Image for Sledding & Baofeng Radios
Thanks for putting together that list, it really saves a lot of time programming each individual channel.
Hey Guys
wondering if anybody has found a good lightweight alternative to the stock skidoo lead acid? I read that the lithium stuff doesn't start when it's super cold. Anybody have any input from actual experience?
Thanks
When we took our last avalanche course our instructor took us to a vacant lot close to high voltage hydro lines and let us turn our beacons on to try and locate one another. Not an easy task. Just another reason for the radio to be in your pack and a shoulder mic to be used.