Blown Top End in 2014 Pro- What to do next and options?

JustChilling19 · Oct 29, 2018

Well long story short I finally got around to cracking into this sled. A picture of the damaged piston will be posted. The cylinder is done and since it’s on the pto side I’m worried the crank is in grave condition. I pulled the engine Sunday and am just wondering how we go about cracking it open to see the crank. Figured at the very least this is a good opportunity to learn about my old sled and it’s engine since I’ve never done something like this before. I pulled off all the bolts and the water pump as well as took off the stator cover. Where do I go from here? Do I need to totally remove the stator/clutch? What can I expect when I go to do so? Any advise is appreciated.

At this juncture I’m undecided if I want to get the engine rebuilt (id get it done professionally) and keep as a backup, part out the sled, or try sell the chassis/engine ‘as is’. I guess if anyone is interested in buying the chassis or parts now would be a good time to make a offer!

Cheers,
Tyler

JustChilling19 · Oct 29, 2018

TDR · Oct 29, 2018

Take it in and have the crank checked out. If you are lucky the pieces are laying in the bottom and it just needs a flush. I’ve done a number of these and sometimes the bottom end is fine. I wouldn’t try to separate the cases yourself unless you’ve done it before.

jpmez69 · Oct 29, 2018

My concern would be the condition of the lower rod and main crank bearings after having all that melted aluminum go though it. If the sled is clean and you want to keep it, I would try and get a short block or exchange crank. You would hate to give it a fresh updated top end and have the crank fail halfway into the season.

Complexd · Oct 30, 2018

Wow that looks pretty rough! I just did mine a couple months ago. Was my first time as well. Thought I was going to get lucky and re use the block but she was a little too far gone for that, but no where near as bad as yours, Good luck!

Pro tip: weird how all 3 of the injector o rings are important. Took me 3 times to put the fuel rail on properly lol

JustChilling19 · Oct 30, 2018

Yeah it was a catastrophic blow up on the cylinder. I ended up buying a 17 Axys LE at the end of last year after this happened to finish out the season which is why the future of this sled is uncertain. Lots of money to fix it from the bottom end up for a backup sled. Haven’t really decided what I want to do yet. That’s why I figured I may as well try pull it apart myself, at least I get to learn something that way.

If if anyone has some guidance about trying to crack into the block and crank it’d be appreciated!

Bnorth · Oct 30, 2018

2 strokes are easy as chit to rebuild. Just tear into it and document the tough parts with pictures and bag and label the parts. Find a factory manual for some info and torque specs. Get that crank out of the case and clean the cases up and have a reputable shop check out the crank then slap it back together. Get an exchange cylinder and fix kit for the top end. You should be under a grand if the crank is good and if it's not add 600 bucks. You'll learn a lot and be proud of yourself after you're done.

JustChilling19 · Oct 30, 2018

Bnorth said:
2 strokes are easy as chit to rebuild. Just tear into it and document the tough parts with pictures and bag and label the parts. Find a factory manual for some info and torque specs. Get that crank out of the case and clean the cases up and have a reputable shop check out the crank then slap it back together. Get an exchange cylinder and fix kit for the top end. You should be under a grand if the crank is good and if it's not add 600 bucks. You'll learn a lot and be proud of yourself after you're done.

Any idea if I need to take off the clutch and stator? Just one of them? Anything special I need to do. Thank you for the encouragement!!

DRD · Oct 30, 2018

Pull both clutch and stator and change the seals on either end.
That piston is fugly, I'd also be looking for why it burnt so bad. The only other one I've seen that bad was an 800 Doo on the juice.

summit1000 · Oct 30, 2018

DRD said:
Pull both clutch and stator and change the seals on either end.
That piston is fugly, I'd also be looking for why it burnt so bad. The only other one I've seen that bad was an 800 Doo on the juice.

This may be a stupid question, but something I've always been curious about. Would running a can contribute to melting a piston? I'd assume that any exhaust mod would cause it to run a bit leaner and hotter, but not sure if it would actually be enough to contribute to catastrophic failure.

JustChilling19 · Nov 4, 2018

Trying this again today. First question. How do we get the stator out? Do we need a puller? Any recommendations?

Second question: how does everybody take off the primary clutch? Not sure we want to introduce water into the mix (method I’ve read about online) being as the engine is taken apart. Thoughts?

Going to can tire now for more tools if anyone has suggestions!!

Complexd · Nov 4, 2018

JustChilling19 said:
Second question: how does everybody take off the primary clutch? Not sure we want to introduce water into the mix (method I’ve read about online) being as the engine is taken apart. Thoughts?

I would just buy the Polaris clutch puller bolt. I think they’re $60. Might be a little difficult to hold the block tight enough to apply enough torque to the bolt...

JustChilling19 · Nov 4, 2018

I would happily buy the bolt but it’s sunday so I’m SOL

Audette13 · Nov 4, 2018

You do need a puller for the stator

JMCX · Nov 4, 2018

If you can find a bolt that matches the threads inside the clutch (3/4" NF l think) you could fill the hole with water or grease, teflon the bolt and rattle it off. Like said, you need a puller for the stator.

JustChilling19 · Nov 4, 2018

Our redneck attempts at the clutch weren’t working so we decided to hold off. I’m going to go buy the clutch tool for the clutch and a flywheel puller for the stator. Thanks for the feedback!

Bnorth · Nov 5, 2018

JustChilling19 said:
Our redneck attempts at the clutch weren’t working so we decided to hold off. I’m going to go buy the clutch tool for the clutch and a flywheel puller for the stator. Thanks for the feedback!

The water/teflon tape method mentioned above is the best method for pulling the clutch. In the future pull it while the motor is still in the chassis.

JustChilling19 · Nov 5, 2018

Bnorth said:
The water/teflon tape method mentioned above is the best method for pulling the clutch. In the future pull it while the motor is still in the chassis.

Yes, in future we will definetly pull the clutch while the motor is mounted.

j.c.higgins · Nov 6, 2018

Did you get the tools you needed?

JustChilling19 · Nov 6, 2018

j.c.higgins said:
Did you get the tools you needed?

Havent had a chance to go yet. Will try run out today or tomorrow.

Blown Top End in 2014 Pro- What to do next and options?

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Active VIP Member

Similar threads