Axys won't rev past 6500rpm

armascott

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Hi I have a 2016 Polaris Axys 800 with 1600kms on it. Yesterday I was out riding in deep snow. After a couple hours the sled would once in a while only rev to 6500 ish. I changed the plugs the old plugs were dry but kinda weird looking it's almost like they had a fuzz on them. After the plug change the sled ran good for maybe a half hours then started doing it again. We started to work our way back out and eventually the check engine light came on and stayed even after shutting the sled off and restarting it. I was able to run it back to the truck. About the plugs I'm wondering if they were like that because the sled seemed to be dumping fuel when it wouldn't rev out.

Any thoughts ? Thanks
 

Pink-Inc

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That's right where the power valves should be opening. Check the relays under the hood. Could be corroded and failed.
 

DeNytroguy

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Hi I have a 2016 Polaris Axys 800 with 1600kms on it. Yesterday I was out riding in deep snow. After a couple hours the sled would once in a while only rev to 6500 ish. I changed the plugs the old plugs were dry but kinda weird looking it's almost like they had a fuzz on them. After the plug change the sled ran good for maybe a half hours then started doing it again. We started to work our way back out and eventually the check engine light came on and stayed even after shutting the sled off and restarting it. I was able to run it back to the truck. About the plugs I'm wondering if they were like that because the sled seemed to be dumping fuel when it wouldn't rev out.

Any thoughts ? Thanks

Cousin had the same issue. Wouldn’t rev properly, fouling plugs.ect. This ended up being the problem.
 

DeNytroguy

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Sorry pic didn’t load the first time.

Adjustments.jpg
 

armascott

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Thanks for the replies I am going to let the sled thaw and look at it tomorrow. I just unloaded the sled off my deck and the check engine light wasn't on this time.
 

rmk600700

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they were just dirty? How often is a guy supposed to clean the powervalves?

I clean when the sled starts to bog in the mid range or not rev out as u experienced. Riding style and conditions affect how long u will go between cleaning. My etec’s would go thousands of miles and never need to be touched my Polaris is at least once a year and maybe twice.
 

armascott

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I think I may have found my problem. The power valve relay has a bit of corrosion on it and it was a bit wet. Going to replace the relay, but does anybody know a way to test it? I don’t want to drive 6 hours out to the mountains next time to find out it wasn’t my issue. I took a pic of the relay but it’s kinda tough to see the corrosion
ac04851bd462704518bf07c5b9c45abb.jpg
 
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adamg

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I don't think there's any 100% certain way to test it that will guarantee once you get on a hill that the sled will work properly next time. Usually some combination of looking at the electric contacts on it, swapping the relays around (there are more than one and they are interchangable), replacing the relay with new, reading service codes, is about the most confident you can be.
 

turboetech

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Remove all the relays clean them and clean where the plug into..... use some grease and reinstall prob be fine just corroded and needing a good cleaning
 

AreWeThereYet

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One of the issues lies with the relays not being sealed and they corrode on the inside as well. There are sealed relays to replace the oem's but I dont remember what the number is.
 

Tchetek

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I think I may have found my problem. The power valve relay has a bit of corrosion on it and it was a bit wet. Going to replace the relay, but does anybody know a way to test it? I don’t want to drive 6 hours out to the mountains next time to find out it wasn’t my issue. I took a pic of the relay but it’s kinda tough to see the corrosion //uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200216/ac04851bd462704518bf07c5b9c45abb.jpg

One of the easiest ways is to swap it with another relay. But if you really want to test it:

Do you have an electrical meter?

The pin out diagram is likely printed on the side of the relay.

2 of the pins will be the coil. You need to apply 12 volts to the coil to test its operation.

The other 3 pins will be a common terminal that will alternate between the last 2 terminals when voltage is applied. One is a closed circuit (normally closed/nc) and the other is normally open (No). They switch state when power is applied or removed to the coil. Need to use a meter to test continuity between the common and the n/c and n/o and confirm they change state when voltage is applied to the coil.

But as somebody stated the factory relays are not a sealed unit and the corrosion problem may be internal.

There are many generic sealed relays that are available as replacements. You will find part numbers if you do some google searching.
 

adamg

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One of the easiest ways is to swap it with another relay. But if you really want to test it:

Do you have an electrical meter?

The pin out diagram is likely printed on the side of the relay.

2 of the pins will be the coil. You need to apply 12 volts to the coil to test its operation.

The other 3 pins will be a common terminal that will alternate between the last 2 terminals when voltage is applied. One is a closed circuit (normally closed/nc) and the other is normally open (No). They switch state when power is applied or removed to the coil. Need to use a meter to test continuity between the common and the n/c and n/o and confirm they change state when voltage is applied to the coil.

But as somebody stated the factory relays are not a sealed unit and the corrosion problem may be internal.

There are many generic sealed relays that are available as replacements. You will find part numbers if you do some google searching.

Even if you prove the relay is working properly, you don't know that it is making a connection with the socket that is part of the wiring harness.
 
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