2017 Axys 174 clutching

XanderKane

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Hey guys, after 4 season on my 2015 pro 155 I decided to get into an axys 174.
my 15 pro had Kurt’s Polaris clutching and was always spot on pulling 8350rpm with the stock belt drive system and a 3” track. I just installed SLP can and pipe on the axys and was looking at clutching options. Anyone have a similar setup and had good success with a certain clutch kit? Sled is stock other than SLP pipe and can (174x3).

Any recommendations would be great.
 

Teth-Air

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You will already have the proper gearing for that sled. If I were you I would go with:

Stock helix
Team gold/black secondary spring
Source Innovations secondary roller bearing
Team yellow primary spring
ProMag adjustable weights
Primary weight shims

This setup will ensure that the clutch engages low enough while at the same time holding the higher RPMs for what the SLP pipe and can was designed to run at.
 

XanderKane

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You will already have the proper gearing for that sled. If I were you I would go with:

Stock helix
Team gold/black secondary spring
Source Innovations secondary roller bearing
Team yellow primary spring
ProMag adjustable weights
Primary weight shims

This setup will ensure that the clutch engages low enough while at the same time holding the higher RPMs for what the SLP pipe and can was designed to run at.

Do you happen to have all that in stock?
 

Shredder

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I have a complete Mountain Magic kit ( the same as the kit as I ran in my 2017 163 Axys with Jaws pipe/can) sitting in the box in my garage with one day of riding on it. This kit was in my son's 2015 Pro 163; but I have the weights for both a Pro and an Axys. Ken uses the same custom cut helix and the same springs in all the 800 kits, but the weights are different.
 
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dragonweld28

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Your going to get many opinions. Here is what I have found to work really well for a 174. First off gearing is too high. Stock is 19/44, put a 46 bottom sprocket on. The stock helix is ok, but I find a multi angle to work better. As long as the angles you use are the correct angles. 2 reasons for this. First, your in the lowest gear possible starting out so utilizing that gearing with a higher initial angle is advantageous for acceleration. Transitioning to a lower angle makes for more consistent rpm and that shallower angle has better belt squeeze, again, allowing you to use a softer spring to still hold RPM. Using a softer belt and softer springs is much more efficient than using a hard belt and stiff springs. 19/46 gearing is good for 68.6 mph track speed @ 1:1, overdrive is 76.22 mph. You will never get there naturally aspirated. Feel free to call me @780-619-6884. I stock all of this and can help really figure this out with your riding weight and elevations.

Cheers, Ben
Cheers,
 
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Chrisco

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Your going to get many opinions. Here is what I have found to work really well for a 174. First off gearing is too high. Stock is 19/44, put a 46 bottom sprocket on. The stock helix is ok, but I find a multi angle to work better. As long as the angles you use are the correct angles. 2 reasons for this. First, your in the lowest gear possible starting out so utilizing that gearing with a higher initial angle is advantageous for acceleration. Transitioning to a lower angle makes for more consistent rpm and that shallower angle has better belt squeeze, again, allowing you to use a softer spring to still hold RPM. Using a softer belt and softer springs is much more efficient than using a hard belt and stiff springs. 19/46 gearing is good for 68.6 mph track speed @ 1:1, overdrive is 76.22 mph. You will never get there naturally aspirated. Feel free to call me @780-619-6884. I stock all of this and can help really figure this out with your riding weight and elevations.

Cheers, Ben
Cheers,



" advantageous " I like that word !!
 

Rhodesie

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Your going to get many opinions. Here is what I have found to work really well for a 174. First off gearing is too high. Stock is 19/44, put a 46 bottom sprocket on. The stock helix is ok, but I find a multi angle to work better. As long as the angles you use are the correct angles. 2 reasons for this. First, your in the lowest gear possible starting out so utilizing that gearing with a higher initial angle is advantageous for acceleration. Transitioning to a lower angle makes for more consistent rpm and that shallower angle has better belt squeeze, again, allowing you to use a softer spring to still hold RPM. Using a softer belt and softer springs is much more efficient than using a hard belt and stiff springs. 19/46 gearing is good for 68.6 mph track speed @ 1:1, overdrive is 76.22 mph. You will never get there naturally aspirated. Feel free to call me @780-619-6884. I stock all of this and can help really figure this out with your riding weight and elevations.

Cheers, Ben
Cheers,
just wondering where and how you have had the speedo recalibrated after the gear change? i need to get mine done also because it is reading high now after the ratio change.
 

Teth-Air

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just wondering where and how you have had the speedo recalibrated after the gear change? i need to get mine done also because it is reading high now after the ratio change.

As far as I know you only have a couple choices. There is a device that gets installed inline and you program number of pulses in to number of pulses out. It is a couple hundred dollars. Sorry I forget the name of it. Secondly if there was a way to fill a couple holes in the brake rotor?? I think welding would warp it, not sure if it could be tapped and a set screw added but if it came loose it would damage the brake pad. Custom brake rotor?? Also I checked with the dealer and they said they only have 2 programming options. Belt drive or chain case. Finally one of the turbo builder that flash the ECU may have the option to calibrate it?

Anyone else with more knowledge on this? Myself I would like a way to fill a couple holes on my brake rotor to calibrate, if anyone knows a safe way? It needs to be a conductive plug as the pickup is magnetic and senses the loss of a ferrous metal at each hole. There are 13 holes in the model I have so each hole filled would change the speedo by about 7-8%. I think the belt drive version has 9 holes.
 

kanedog

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Kanedog 2015-2019, thanks for the good times S&M!
just wondering where and how you have had the speedo recalibrated after the gear change? i need to get mine done also because it is reading high now after the ratio change.
Free method-On packed, flat snow, ride 40mph on your speedo. Record both speedo and Gps speed. Divide the non gps speedo by the gps speed and now you have a % to figure out true speedo reading.
Ex. 35mph gps speed divided by 40mph speedo speed=.875.
.875 x 40mph on speedo=35mph.
Put a lil’ label on your speedo that says “x .875” and now you can figure out the corrected speedo reading.
Bob is yer uncle.
Or go to the dealer and ask for a speedo recalibration. You will now receive a deer in the headlight look. Haha most techs are so dumb. I love it!
 
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