2013 pro rmk gauge flickering

gdhillon · Dec 28, 2019

Was out riding lucille today, I’d say 3/4 times I restarted it after it was warm my gauges would flicker and it would show about 900 rpm. Once I gave it a little throttle the cluster would go back to normal display function.

I did a quick google, seems like it’s the VR. The sled is non e start. It also seemed like the sled didn’t have as much jam as it should? It has about 3k miles PO rebuilt the top end last season iirc. I say this because I couldn’t pull a dead rmk 900 up the first hill coming from the waterfall/lake

Has this happens to anyone on here? How would one go about testing the voltage regulator? (I didn’t come up with anything from my google search)

thanks in advance

skid · Dec 28, 2019

A friend of mine has a 13 as well and the exact same thing started happening toward the end of past season, I haven’t had time to look at it yet but will be in the next couple weeks. I let you know what I find if I beat you to it.

ABMax24 · Dec 28, 2019

Honestly I'd say the throttle position sensor. If it idles too slow the gauge often doesn't run right, which it can with a bad TPS, also it will make the sled run like crap.

ABMax24 · Dec 28, 2019

After closer review it sounds like a VR. Power for the instrument cluster also powers the exhaust valve solenoid, which would explain the loss of power.

gdhillon · Dec 29, 2019

Thanks man! Now I’m on the hunt for a vr before New Years haha

On another note my throttle bloc is looses on the bars after my helmet contacted it pretty hard. It does not look like anything is broken off though?..is the block supposed to sit on the grips for these sleds?

ABMax24 · Dec 30, 2019

No it doesn't sit on the grips. There is a set screw on the bottom of the throttle block, pull that out and the little plastic piece it came out of should clip back in to the block. Sometimes it take a bit of force to get it back in, but there shouldn't be any gaps between that piece and the the throttle block on either side where it clips in.

gdhillon · Dec 31, 2019

I sourced myself a used VR, is there a good way to test these things?

I do plan on ordering a new on when the dealer opens back up Thursday, the used one is so I can ride asap

Also, when I removed mine the bolts seemed to break off? Or is it just a piece of ready rod and nut that holds these things on?

ABMax24 · Dec 31, 2019

I looked and couldn't find a procedure to check the VR in the service manual, not to say there isn't one, I just don't know what it is.

The bolts shouldn't turn or break off, the are integral to the clutch guard. If they did break off though I don't see why you couldn't drill holes in the same spot and use a traditional bolt and nut.

TROLLCAT · Dec 31, 2019

rivit it on just move it a 1/4 " over avoid them broken bolts

gdhillon · Dec 31, 2019

The bolts came out of the hole with the nut. I will just throw new bolts and nuts on both ends in

I will get a picture when I get back home, it’s a pretty odd setup how they had it fastened in

Okay, I saw some generic VR tests on YouTube I’ll try out. Do these things go often? Should I be concerned of a used one crapping the bed like my old did or is it b/c my unit had high mileage?

gdhillon · Jan 6, 2020

Went for a short powerline ride Saturday. So far I have changed the vr, cleaned the powervalves and changed plugs, and put a tyrap around my throttle block b/c it was fairly loose.

For the most part on restart the sled ran/idled fine. Twice it did the flickering gauge thing and rpms were around 900-1000. So I’m now leaning towards my idle being set low...however I still find this weird because sometimes it idles good and sometimes it doesn’t?
I have watched some videos on setting the tps, I’m not too confident in my ability to do it myself so I think I’ll take it to the stealership. I also have a trip planned to vale this weekend and need it to be running good.
Besides doing that, anyone have input/experienced this issue?

Kyle89 · Jan 6, 2020

You need to have your tps reset. You can do it yourself, theres several YouTube videos on it. It's really not hard and takes no time.

The low idle causes the guage to flicker on and off. Another symptom of tps not calibrated is reverse not working

gdhillon · Jan 6, 2020

Okay, reverse does work well.

I will search up vids on resetting tps

Rhodesie · Jan 6, 2020

may be time to check reeds to see if they are chipped. sled will run ok at wot but will not idle properly. might be worth a look.

gdhillon · Jan 8, 2020

Okay, think I’m gonna year apart at the reeds tomorrow.

i found this link online, is this the same process for a prormk 800 motor?

https://snowgoer.com/snowmobile-tech-tips/how-to/how-to-replace-polaris-pro-ride-reed-cages/17712/

Frankenytro · Jan 9, 2020

that is the exact same procedure. Your sled is a pro ride chassis. If you do need reeds you have a couple of options. If you were to buy stock cages loaded with new pedals you will likely pay $170-$200 per cage. You also have to option of buying pedals alone from boyesen for very cheap or can do something like a v force setup that comes with loaded cages but will be likely in the same price range as oem parts. I run the boyesen super stock pedals in my turbo pro and have no complaints.

gdhillon said:
Okay, think I’m gonna year apart at the reeds tomorrow.

i found this link online, is this the same process for a prormk 800 motor?

https://snowgoer.com/snowmobile-tech-tips/how-to/how-to-replace-polaris-pro-ride-reed-cages/17712/

gdhillon · Jan 9, 2020

Frankenytro said:
that is the exact same procedure. Your sled is a pro ride chassis. If you do need reeds you have a couple of options. If you were to buy stock cages loaded with new pedals you will likely pay $170-$200 per cage. You also have to option of buying pedals alone from boyesen for very cheap or can do something like a v force setup that comes with loaded cages but will be likely in the same price range as oem parts. I run the boyesen super stock pedals in my turbo pro and have no complaints.

Okay thanks man. Do you know if I’ll need the fuel line disconnect tool for my 13 or would pliers work?

TDR · Jan 9, 2020

Standard automotive fuel line disconnect tool. You can likely get a set of stock reeds cheap from Jason at BWC Powersports in Sherwood Park. 780-913-2675. Drop him a text he responds quick.

Frankenytro · Jan 9, 2020

to disconnect the lines on the tank you just squeeze the tabs in with your finger and your thumb. I have 2 13’s and have never required special tooling for fuel lines.

Frankenytro said:
that is the exact same procedure. Your sled is a pro ride chassis. If you do need reeds you have a couple of options. If you were to buy stock cages loaded with new pedals you will likely pay $170-$200 per cage. You also have to option of buying pedals alone from boyesen for very cheap or can do something like a v force setup that comes with loaded cages but will be likely in the same price range as oem parts. I run the boyesen super stock pedals in my turbo pro and have no complaints.

gdhillon · Jan 9, 2020

Well boys I did a compression test as advised from the local polaris dealer. 90/93 ;(
Looks like I’m looking at a rebuild

2013 pro rmk gauge flickering

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