2017 - 2018 sidewinder

Is there any difference between the two that makes a big difference?
I haven’t ridden one yet but looking seriously at them.
A buddy of mine rode a 2017 King Cat completely stock and said it had terrible turbo lag?
Probably clutching ?

Thanks in advance

There’s a guy on the west coast by the name Todd Eberts. Granted he’s helped out by Yamaha, he’s ridden both the 17 and 18 sidewinder extensively. Look him up on Facebook and pick his brain, he’s had fairly positive things to say about both model years (yes I realize he may be a bit biased)

Lund on here has 2017 with a 174 he is very knowledgable. I rode the 2017 on the power tour last year and there is zero lag on it. The 2018 has a dropped and rolled chaincase giving a reduced attack angle on the snow. The sled really works! Just a few quick points for you.

Got boost want snow said:

Lund on here has 2017 with a 174 he is very knowledgable. I rode the 2017 on the power tour last year and there is zero lag on it. The 2018 has a dropped and rolled chaincase giving a reduced attack angle on the snow. The sled really works! Just a few quick points for you.

Click to expand...

That’s why I started this is to hear from him and a few others that know?
Didn’t want to screw up his thread on them ? Lol

2017 Sidewinder did not have the drop and roll case, the skinny boards, QSL shocks, or the dual plenum air intake. The 2017 King Cat did. For 2018, the sleds are identical other then clutches, colors, and slightly different plastics. Regarding turbo lag, I have a 2017 King Cat and never noticed any lag whatsoever, so perhaps your buddy's had some issue going on (leaking BRV or clutching issue). The Team clutches work very well, I've since updated mine with EVO's stage 4 reflash, glide washers, weights, and delrin washers in the secondary, had no need to change springs or helix angle. Fully wet and full of fuel, spare belt and tool kit my Cat weighs 651.6 lbs - has heavier bumpers and skidplate, but lost weight with the exhaust - 91 lbs heavier then my wife's 2013 Pro RMK 660 with a 153" PC track, but it does have tunnel / bulkhead bracing and a MNTEK cooler, but similar mods. The Cat rides lighter then it is, and handles well, fit and finish is good (better then any cat I've owned), and just plain works well.

^^^^^
Thanks old fart. exactly the info and conversation I am looking for.

If I was buying one today I would look for a 17 first. Rode Catman10 17 lots and Kibbels 18 for only one day. Didn’t feel the drop and roll was any better. Both feel similar for power. I’ve seen some 17s in the $14000 range with 200 kms.
If anything I prefer the chaincase on the 17, the drop and roll needs to be protected big time.

niner said:

If I was buying one today I would look for a 17 first. Rode Catman10 17 lots and Kibbels 18 for only one day. Didn’t feel the drop and roll was any better. Both feel similar for power. I’ve seen some 17s in the $14000 range with 200 kms.
If anything I prefer the chaincase on the 17, the drop and roll needs to be protected big time.

Click to expand...

This is why I am asking the question? I am not a fan of the chain cases hanging down .

Best deal I’ve found.

Plus I would be the odd man out as would only be running 2.5 x 174.

I doubt you'd go wrong with either. But FWIW, I WILL NOT run a sled without a skidplate, regardless if it adds weight or holds a bit of snow. I've replaced enough bulkheads / chaincases over the years on all brands just cause I tagged a landmine. The Cat (and I'm assuming Yamaha) skidplate covers well and offers substantially better protection then the crap they come with. Face it, if you hit something with either without protection it's gonna be expensive, so protect your ride.
I will add that if you are interested in the skinny boards and drop & roll, I bought my Cat for a VERY good deal from T&T Powersports in Bonnyville. They sell Yamaha & Cat, I went with Cat cause I liked the orange, and it had the D&R case & narrower body. Fit and finish between the two were pretty much identical, and for some unknown reason Cat parts are generally less $$$ then Yamaha, even though they are the same toboggan other then color & clutches...

The one big difference is the cost of belts, first if you need one for a yamaha it will only set you back maybe at the most about 140 ish, cat if like all their other models will set you back probably 200-250. So not all parts are cheaper. Both are well built and on the same chassis so it becomes personal preference.

The difference between a 17 and 18 winder, well as other's posted you have the D/R, narrower board's, improved air intake and different choices of colors.
Otherwise they are basically the same sled in handling and performance.
Here is my take on it.
Money talk's, if you can pickup a 17 and save a bunch that is the way i would go. But after saying that the 18 left over are going to be had at a reduce pricing soon as the 19's are being introduced.
Differences in boards, depending on your size and i'm a big guy, size 13 boots. I have no use for narrow boards and no use for Cat boards in general, so a board replacement for me was a no brain'er. My CR boards are actually wider then the 17 oem boards all the way to the back. Hell i could hold a dance party on my boards..LOL..Some peeps on here commented that i was going backward's, too what, the trend??? Something to think about, narrow boards are ok for average joe or smaller riders but don't inspire confidence with bigger dudes when 1/4 of your foot hangs off the board all the time.
The improve air intake, i haven't heard many complain about the 17 having issues with plugging intakes but Yamaha felt it needed improving, maybe on them super deep day's some where. But if your going to install a CAI, it doesn't matter as the oem system will be deleted.
The D/R, i have had 3 sleds with D/R drives. All custom build's.
The PRO's, helps keep the ski's down, allows the sled to get up on top easier, slightly lowered CG, these are claim's that prove true but not necessarily hard core fact's, as all manufactures would do it otherwise, there are many other way's builders achieve the same results without jeopardizing the drive.
The CON"s, makes the entire drive vulnerable and susceptible to impact, no matter what you do to try to protect your cases the drive axle and drivers are exposed.
I have never busted a case because of my D/R's but i have bent a drive axle and damaged my drivers. It just happens.
For me i'm not sold on D/R for recreational use and honestly, most every one would never notice the difference from D/R to non D/R. If your into hillclimb competition's and need that slight edge, then the D/R might give you that slight edge.

BTW, the 17 King cat is your 18 Winder basically, other then it uses Cat clutching, its another option, oneoldfart can tell you all about them.

Yeh I am never in a hurry to purchase and try to buy in the off season for best pricing .
Like buying the lightly used ones as well that are completely stock motor wise and make my own changes I see fit.