Impeller and wear ring install

HotShotHarry

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Going to pick up a AA aluminum billet impeller from Kehoe Marine next Monday. Roger does not recommend using a shouldered wear ring for these rivers around here.
 

Chrisco

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Going to pick up a AA aluminum billet impeller from Kehoe Marine next Monday. Roger does not recommend using a shouldered wear ring for these rivers around here.

Can someone explain to me why the billet aluminum impeller would be better for our rivers than a SS impeller please cuz i dont get it.
 

NoBrakes!

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stainless is soft and gummy, add a stainless wear rings and you're in for problems IMO. We RACE with billet steel. tried billet aluminums but they didn't last with the power. the design of the billet (helix angles, blade length/shape) is much better than the old cast stuff. I run SS impeller with shouldered bronze wear rings in sport boats with no problems, but add power and they flex. no noise when idling with the billets either.


The billet aluminum is stronger than the cast IMO and no real drawbacks. can be built up and re machined easier if you have an issue on the rear ring (front or rear) and 4/5 blade options. Kimballs work is great
 

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HotShotHarry

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Well...word on the street is... The aluminum impeller will become the weak point in the driveline, should a rock or stick or whatever become lodged in the impeller, the aluminum will break first, rather than damaging the housing or perhaps the crank. Thats what the boys at the pool hall are saying. Lol. What you think?
 

174mcx

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I was always under the understanding the grate is what kept too big of sticks or rocks out of the impeller. Come to think of it I don't think there is anyway a big enough stick could even fit in the impeller veins to stop a v8 if it didn't have a grate at all.
 

NoBrakes!

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thin shale or flat sticks can slip through grates and lodge in veins. hard shale will destroy the pump, a stick will cavitate so bad it'll overheat or fall off step. not to mention the guys who open stomp grates while idling....
 

174mcx

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Ya, I've experienced sticks that cavitate for sure. Never really thought of thin rocks, but ya I suppose thats true, makes sense to me. You guys that race have the biggest asset for sure with experience. I know when I had a american pump in a custom weld I had an aluminum impeller (not billet) and a SS. If I was going on a long adventure and wanted fuel economy I ran the aluminum. If i was in shallow all the time I ran the SS. My aluminum wouldn't take the gravel from more than one or two "Bumps".
 

NoBrakes!

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Racing is one thing, having a boat reliable in all situations with family and friends aboard is another. Tough to learn without having issues
 

Chrisco

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Well...word on the street is... The aluminum impeller will become the weak point in the driveline, should a rock or stick or whatever become lodged in the impeller, the aluminum will break first, rather than damaging the housing or perhaps the crank. Thats what the boys at the pool hall are saying. Lol. What you think?


Hey Harry give me a call 780-217-9141 thanks Chris
 

phatboy07

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Interesting read so far.
So I’m running a Scott 852 what are the differences in running stainless impellers and wear rings in Thus particular pump?
And yes I’m aware it’s a diff pump altogether than a white pump lol
 

NoBrakes!

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no experience with the axial stuff... I know they measure the impellers in KW not AA,A,B etc... stainless wear rings/impellers are rebuildable but some use Teflon or Vespel wear rings to decrease clearance for more efficiency. Again, similar materials usually don't wear together well...
 

HotShotHarry

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Ok, if anyone is interested,I ended up installing a AAA stainless impeller and wear ring.I bought it from Roger at Kehoe marine and Crisco generously offered to help me replace the wear ring at his shop in Stoney Plain. I must say.... Yee-Haw!!!! Now it’s working! Jumps up on plane almost immediately. No cavitation upon takeoff at all. Thanks Roger,Crisco , Lund and NoBrakes for the discussion time and thoughts on which impeller to go with. Happy Boating!
 
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Cableguy

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anyone in the okanagan that can help set up american turbine impeller?
My buddy in enderby just rebuilt but not sure if he got the tolerances correct
 

Joholio

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anyone in the okanagan that can help set up american turbine impeller?
My buddy in enderby just rebuilt but not sure if he got the tolerances correct

309 or 312? What makes you say your comment about the tolerances? Did it stick?
 

Joholio

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312 doesnt seem to have the holeshot it should

I have an impeller nut socket, shims, a square and a digital end micrometer here in Sicamous if that helps, no feeler gauge though.

I let my buddy doo my 312 and all he had experience with was 309(totally different) and we way overtightened it and we stuck it(5.7A-Aluminum). I cleaned it up and reinstalled it the right way and after 4 years I’m weak on the holeshot too. If I recall its 0.030 measured at the top. I guess I better look it up. Let me know if I can help.
 
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