Post your best cheap/bang for your buck M8000 mods

Jseime

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What are some of the simple/small tweaks that everyone likes doing to their machines. Post your favorite mods here!

Edit: specific sled is a 2015 153/2.6” machine stretched to a 162/3” with challenger track. 7 tooth drivers and 21/49 gearing. Only other add ons are dalton adjustable weights and a sled shed can.
 
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AGGRESIVEZEBRA

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going to guess 12-17 as it is in the pro climb section not the ascender section.

Y-pipe really wakes the sled up lots of hp for little dollars
reeds get rid of that low end bog/ bobble they have
not so cheap but running boards cat boards suck
Free mod if you have the 2.6 is cut out all the "fingers" makes it trench way less
 

Jorgy

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2018 clutch
boysen reeds
ssi full exhaust

X2 on the above. Also recommend putting new springs in your primary and secondary every season or 1000 miles as they get bagged out. Can also do the air temp sensor relocate mod from SLP, increases throttle response slightly.
 

Clode

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I rode today with the updated clutch on my 16, I am impressed with the improvement in performance, rpms rock solid, pulling more weight at elevation, super smooth, and no more grinding noises. A really good upgrade
 

Jorgy

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I rode today with the updated clutch on my 16, I am impressed with the improvement in performance, rpms rock solid, pulling more weight at elevation, super smooth, and no more grinding noises. A really good upgrade

Nice!, what are you running for weights, springs and helix?
 

Clode

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Dalton's, a fully loaded at 71.6 grams, stock springs primary and secondary, 48degree helix , 8tooth drivers
 

Clode

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I will have to run more weight at lower elevations now, guessing 74grams
 

Jseime

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For the guys running the new style clutches are they just a bolt on and go or are there other things that need to be done too? And where’s the best place to buy em? Aftermarket supplier or just stroll down to the local cat store?

Also, is it worthwhile to swap out to the 36” front end or is that money better spent elsewhere?
 

E-Zmoke

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Tether - No brainer Cost $50

Re-locate your intake temp sensor from inside the intake to under the hood, this will trick the ECU into reading warm intake temps and will give it less fuel/lean it out on the bottom. Makes it run so much better and really snappy on the bottom end...Tried tested and true ran for years with no failures on numerous sleds. Cost = $0

Remove both outside bogey wheels from skid for small weight reduction and easier to rip on edge. Sled does not need the wheels, again tried tested and true ran for years with no issues on numerous sleds. Cost = $0

Remove snow scoop from clutch side panel, replace with mountain fit vent. Saves belt life and will allow air to flow properly and not let snow in on your clutches. Cost $50

Remove adjustable post. Replace with Zbroz adjustable post delete kit. Safety issue, and allows the bars to be lower for more control. Cost $60
 

Clode

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For the guys running the new style clutches are they just a bolt on and go or are there other things that need to be done too? And where’s the best place to buy em? Aftermarket supplier or just stroll down to the local cat store?

Also, is it worthwhile to swap out to the 36” front end or is that money better spent elsewhere?
If your sled is 2015 or older, you need to update the secondary clutch also which requires changing the jackshaft also.
 

Lund

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I have some 17 spindles and a-arms i'm willing to part with. The A-arms are not 36" though. None of the components have ever seen snow, all new.
 

Iceburg

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If your sled is 2015 or older, you need to update the secondary clutch also which requires changing the jackshaft also.

Great thread! what is this ballpark cost for clutches and I think that means Team clutches right?
 

Clode

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Great thread! what is this ballpark cost for clutches and I think that means Team clutches right?

I got my primary from dragonweld. He is a dealer for SSI who makes a complete kit to update the older proclimbs. Pm him for pricing.

Altitude power sports out of Leduc, talk to Ben (dragonweld) on here he is the distributor
 

SL3DH3D

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Tether - No brainer Cost $50

Re-locate your intake temp sensor from inside the intake to under the hood, this will trick the ECU into reading warm intake temps and will give it less fuel/lean it out on the bottom. Makes it run so much better and really snappy on the bottom end...Tried tested and true ran for years with no failures on numerous sleds. Cost = $0

Remove both outside bogey wheels from skid for small weight reduction and easier to rip on edge. Sled does not need the wheels, again tried tested and true ran for years with no issues on numerous sleds. Cost = $0

Remove snow scoop from clutch side panel, replace with mountain fit vent. Saves belt life and will allow air to flow properly and not let snow in on your clutches. Cost $50

Remove adjustable post. Replace with Zbroz adjustable post delete kit. Safety issue, and allows the bars to be lower for more control. Cost $60

Got any more info and pic of the temp sensor relocation ?
 

Levithan

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For the intake sensor template of where to drill and info, check out slp's website.
It's where i got the info to do mine.
temp sensor wires need to be cut, extended and soldered(don't use butt connectors).
 
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