Anyone gear up a 2016 M8000

Clode

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So I have a '16 m8000 153 3" limited early build. I find it is geared so low and was wondering if anybody geared one up a tooth or two. Did it turn into a belt eater ?
 

TROLLCAT

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So I have a '16 m8000 153 3" limited early build. I find it is geared so low and was wondering if anybody geared one up a tooth or two. Did it turn into a belt eater ?

check gearing for the 12 and 13 cats they were belt consumers

just sayin
 

mountianguy

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So I have a '16 m8000 153 3" limited early build. I find it is geared so low and was wondering if anybody geared one up a tooth or two. Did it turn into a belt eater ?

I re-geared to 21/49 similar ratio as 19/50 with 8 tooth drivers. It works good with no belt issues. A/C made the same gearing switch in 2017 also. I did add a manual tensioner at the same time. The team clutches work pretty good but I do agree that its like it hits a wall at 35-40 mph. I am trying a different primary spring as the secondary spring change I made last season didn't seem to help actually made things worst. I have been researching a bit and have found most kits are focusing on the primary. 8 tooth drivers with the drop and roll would be the best option for performance, I rode an er last spring and was impressed with the handling,clutching,and engine. I have no experience with just adding the 8 tooth drivers, but doing the math it would be a drop of .47 of an inch compared to 1.125 with the drop and roll. The rolling resistance would be less and with the aluminum shaft 3 lbs lighter might be a good option. I have read shaft removal is a bit of a job with the 8 tooth and a 3 inch track.
 

Clode

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So the 8 tooth drivers are tight with the 3", so I bet it would work well with the 2.6.
 

Fatdaddy

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So I have a '16 m8000 153 3" limited early build. I find it is geared so low and was wondering if anybody geared one up a tooth or two. Did it turn into a belt eater ?
I find mine geared low also. Coming down steep slopes I have to lock up the track to break the back shift and then throttle to up shift. It has such a strong back shift. Belt life has been great though clutches stay a lot cooler from previous.
 

mountianguy

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So the 8 tooth drivers are tight with the 3", so I bet it would work well with the 2.6.

The 2.6 came from the factory on 8 tooth. Over on Snow West there are some 8 tooth threads worth reading if your thinking of doing this. It is an economical way to go as you can buy the aluminum shaft and drivers for 250 usd from BDX, I am sure a guy can do better with a little effort and patience. The d/r is a better option but more work and money. I guess a guy could try the 8 t and d/r later if you wanted to. I would be interested in your results if you go this route. I still feel the clutching has room for improvement and either way you go the clutching will be whats holding you back.
 

Clode

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The 2.6 came from the factory on 8 tooth. Over on Snow West there are some 8 tooth threads worth reading if your thinking of doing this. It is an economical way to go as you can buy the aluminum shaft and drivers for 250 usd from BDX, I am sure a guy can do better with a little effort and patience. The d/r is a better option but more work and money. I guess a guy could try the 8 t and d/r later if you wanted to. I would be interested in your results if you go this route. I still feel the clutching has room for improvement and either way you go the clutching will be whats holding you back.

This engine is begging to be loaded, I am thinking the driver change may work well and a good starting point
 

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Going to 8 tooth drivers gives better gearing, lower rolling friction and better approach angle. It's a rather cost effective mod.
 

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It wanst a 16 but on my 14 hcr i ran a 3” challenger with 7 tooth drivers, i geared up to the 21/49 hyvo setupe and it really woke her up, it did also have a speedwerx stage 2 but i found it wasnt loaded enough, going to 21/49 made it alot more fun
 

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I geared up my '16 ltd when I did the belt drive. It was geared way too low. Can't remember what I geared too but it was a pile better and no belt issues whatsoever. As for the 8 tooth drivers and 3" what everyone else is saying is true. They go in very easy but getting them back out is an absolute pain. That being said I think the 8 tooth drivers would be a worthwhile swap for ya
 

Clode

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so I have 8 tooth drivers on the way, I will report back on how they work out
 

Clode

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Finally got around to installing the 8 tooth drivers, I will report back after I get some saddle time. I did discover that the factory drivers were a little to close together and rubbing the track clip. This sled always had a vibration and I hope this was the cause. I set the drivers a little further apart and they clear the clips nicely now.
 

Clode

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So I put 121 miles in the sled with the larger drivers. The clutches gained no heat, and on the trail the extra gear was really nice. When at elevation I didnt have to adjust my weights it was reving 8050 and pulled really good. Zero belt dust. So to sum it up this was a good upgrade, and I see no negatives.
 

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Kanedog 2015-2019, thanks for the good times S&M!
I geared up my '16 ltd when I did the belt drive. It was geared way too low. Can't remember what I geared too but it was a pile better and no belt issues whatsoever. As for the 8 tooth drivers and 3" what everyone else is saying is true. They go in very easy but getting them back out is an absolute pain. That being said I think the 8 tooth drivers would be a worthwhile swap for ya

Do the clutches run at 1to1 on a big climb?
 

cat925

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So I put 121 miles in the sled with the larger drivers. The clutches gained no heat, and on the trail the extra gear was really nice. When at elevation I didnt have to adjust my weights it was reving 8050 and pulled really good. Zero belt dust. So to sum it up this was a good upgrade, and I see no negatives.
You want 8200 rpm your leaving a lot of performance on the table get some lighter weights or some cutler adjustable
 
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