2017 Drop and roll

BDF#900 · Jan 4, 2017

I know lots of 2 strokes are doing it and belt drive, but before dropping the extra $500 dollars on a new outside case half on a 4 stroke to retain my reverse, was wondering if it was all that and a bag of chips. Would appreciate any feed back. Thanks

SRXtreme · Jan 5, 2017

The main reason to do a D&R is to install a larger paddle track, without going to smaller drivers. It gives added clearance from the tips of the track to tunnel. Second it provides a lower angle of attack, so the sled climbs on top of the snow quicker...............SRXtreme

BDF#900 · Jan 5, 2017

Track clearance not a big issue on a HCR, you can wrangle a 3 in. track on 8 tooth drivers in there without the drop and roll, might need to cut the track shaft to get it back out, but it will go in!
Thats current benefit to Cat and Yammies, but with the drop and roll you gain a larger foot print and better contact with your drivers, less chance of stabbing your rails, and you pop up on the snow better with the shallower attack angle.
I know and realize this but was just asking to see if anyone who has done the change up sees any dramatic improvement on the sleds ability to get up on the snow.

Great Pumpkin · Jan 5, 2017

Ran two 14's last weekend. One with 17 case and still chain drive 153 track. One with 14 case belt drive and 162 track. The 153 was staying flatter in the climbs, seemed two handle a bit easier and was definitely getting up and moving easier in the snow. I rode both sleds for full day each. So it was as even a comparison as i could do. With mad motorsports having the templates, and using stock parts it is worth it. Take time when doing the cutting. Check lots before cutting and take small bites. The belt drive 14 is going to be changed now also. Hopefully the pics attached showing the difference.

BDF#900 · Jan 5, 2017

Thanks for USEFULL reply
was the info I was looking for

Great Pumpkin · Jan 5, 2017

You bet!

niner · Jan 5, 2017

Did you notice any difference in sidehilling between the two? I have noticed a steeper attack angle seems to bite into the hill better making it easier to sidehill. Interested to hear how yours felt.

Great Pumpkin · Jan 5, 2017

Getting it over was same maybe hair easier. Once over it did hold line better. Back end wasn't dropping as much or as bad. Again it seems like it stays flatter. Maybe shallower track angle helping with this. Not wanting to climb as much to get on or through snow. My best comparison will be when i get the 17 case in the 162 sled. For now i'm going to say it does make a difference in holding the line. Just my opinion

Vertical-Extreme · Jan 5, 2017

Lots of good info over on snowest. A few threads going comparing the mountains cats to non mountain cats. Sounds like they are the real deal

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BDF#900 · Jan 21, 2017

Have all the chaincase now, and am getting ready to order some gears. Running a Super Chute kit with a race gas flash (340ish hp). Am leaning towards 21-41 gearing. Anyone (other than keyboard clowns and you know who you are) tell me any reason this shouldn't work? Will use hyvo chain and gears, have a TAPP primary with the Turbie TCL delete with all the braces and stoppers and a Team secondary, 8 tooth drivers and a 2.6 Powerclaw track. Will be spinning it at 8100 rpm, if your going to do the math(I get 105mph). Any informed input would be appreciated.

BDF#900 · Mar 8, 2017

Picked up sled from Deano today and little test pass on minimal snow put a good sized grin on my melon. 6500rpm=85mph, 8100=warp speed. Still need to adjust limiter strap and front skid shock to get rid of some ski pressure that it picked up. Can't wait to get it to the hill

Lund · Mar 9, 2017

The biggest issue with D&R is the vulnerability of drive getting damage. Your axle no longer has the protection of the bulkhead, i have repaired several including my own from bent drivers and axles, including a busted chain case. I highly recommend installing an armored plate under the chain case using heavy gauge aluminum.
It is very surprising how vulnerable it is when your drive axle is slightly below the bulk head, it gets all the brunt of impacts under certain situations while before the it didn't.
Some guys have no issues with that but some do, it really depends on your style of riding i'm guessing but i have repaired a few and all were D&R.

BDF#900 · Mar 9, 2017

You bet it is hanging down there. Rails are pretty close also. Have had some experience with D&Red sleds and fortunately never banged up a set of drivers, probably dumb luck. Looks like it wouldn't take a bunch of work to put something in there to act as a deflector. Am going to tip a KK over and see what it's got going on down there, maybe they have integrated something in there from the factory.

Teth-Air · Mar 16, 2017

I have 2 more drop and roll templates coming in from TKI if anyone is interested. Also have the Mountain Cat belt drive kits in stock to fit right on after the drop and roll is done.

2017 Drop and roll

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