Monorail Contact

snochuk · Dec 20, 2019

Cat401 said:
wading through all the bull****...a question was asked...what those nuts are called........T-nuts

Some bolt supply outlets might have them in SS

Thanks bud.
You get a lot of extra clearance but use at least blue locktite to hold together.
You can also reposition/offset the limiter strap to gain another 1/4" clearance for the rail if wanted but strap will run on about a 15° angle. This step does requie a limiter strap length adjustment.
I will post some pictures in about a week when I get a chance as sled not in city. May risk another doo attack for posting good info.......lol.

These are easy adjustments to make and have eliminated the contact on my sled. Also had a wee bit of oil added to my front shock by Curtis at Nextec while they had my rear skid out last summer.

snochuk · Dec 20, 2019

LMLCHEVY said:
What size are these T nuts folks are using?

1/4" dia with 5/16" long t-nut and 5/16" long t-bolt, I used a big set of channel lock pliers to pressure fit the t-nut shank into the limiter strap holes.
Limiter strap holes could be drilled out for a bigger dia tbolt if a person wanted but 1/4" should be fine for strength.
Same existing position holes can be used, i also put a little oil on limiter strap hole- tight fit for sure working t-nut shank in position.
But easy to thread together, don't forget to locktite the threads.

JMCX · Dec 20, 2019

snochuk said:
You can also reposition/offset the limiter strap to gain another 1/4" clearance for the rail if wanted but strap will run on about a 15° angle. This step does requie a limiter strap length adjustment.
I will post some pictures in about a week when I get a chance as sled not in city. May risk another doo attack for posting good info.......lol.

These are easy adjustments to make and have eliminated the contact on my sled.

Isn't the strap acting as the bump-stop? Probably should have it inline with the rail.

snochuk · Dec 20, 2019

JMCX said:
Isn't the strap acting as the bump-stop? Probably should have it inline with the rail.

You could be right as there is no other bump stop and metal to metal would be a disaster.
Stopping at dealer tonight and will check.
Might have to release air and claps suspension to do a check on contact both options.

niner · Dec 20, 2019

snochuk said:
You could be right as there is no other bump stop and metal to metal would be a disaster.
Stopping at dealer tonight and will check.
Might have to release air and claps suspension to do a check on contact both options.

He is correct. The bump stop is the limiter strap. That was the reason for doubling mine up. You are on the right path though with making the limiter strap longer. There is 3/8” of extra shock in there.

JMCX · Dec 20, 2019

niner said:
He is correct. The bump stop is the limiter strap. That was the reason for doubling mine up. You are on the right path though with making the limiter strap longer. There is 3/8” of extra shock in there.

Right path if wheelies are your thing. I guess you could drop the rear suspension mount to the lower hole to compensate.

jpmez69 · Dec 20, 2019

niner said:
Do you even ride bro? If you spent more time in the doo section you would realize your new sled needs new plugs. Then maybe you could post something useful for a change. You haven’t posted one conditions pic, useful tip to other members ever. We don’t need you ranting about Cats we have Maxwell to do that. He’s way funnier than you. Kanedog does a great job also and at least has the balls to show up and ride and put his money where his mouth is. Even sled Denny has more meaningful posts than you. So how bout you head down to Canadian Tire and throw some new plugs in your ride and try and contribute and make Snowandmud great again.

Hey Niner, yes my season is about to start and I hope to get out more than I did last year as I too enjoy the sport as much as the next guy. I may have pulled a few punches on this forum in the past but I certainly wasn't the first to pull the trigger. Some of it is just banter and some was intended. I do have a vested interest in BRP and will defend it against false info that on occasion is posted on this forum. I don't mix politics and product. As for usefull tips. For example. I did post on 17 G4's that some had belt/ alignment issues and getting to the root cause. I did get my hands on one and was able to produce an easy solution at the time using BRP watercraft engine mounts and shims. Unfortunately I was quickly dismissed as BS by a few jaded individuals (mostly one) on said issue. I don't need to add to the tech tip of the day as there is lots of good info out there already.

As for my criticism on Cat, I do hope they have a long term fix for their customers on said issues as these deficiencies may not be easy and be very costly to rectify. ( Large companies don't react quickly I get it). But in this day and age we should all expect more from these manufactures as the cost of these toys continue to climb and are less and less affordable for most people. We shouldn't have to make home grown (fixes) for basic reliability on the trail for stock machines. I don't get the guys who are ok with this. Brand loyalty maybe? Saving face? They should all be held to a higher standard. That's my rant on that. These open forums do cover many different topics and points of views. On occasion it can get heated. Some banter can be good for competitive reasons for sure. It is my hope that we can all respect each others view points for what they are. Including myself, we can all do better. At the end of the day we support and all share common ground for the enjoyment of this sport. Cheers!

kanedog · Dec 20, 2019

niner said:
Do you even ride bro? If you spent more time in the doo section you would realize your new sled needs new plugs. Then maybe you could post something useful for a change. You haven’t posted one conditions pic, useful tip to other members ever. We don’t need you ranting about Cats we have Maxwell to do that. He’s way funnier than you. Kanedog does a great job also and at least has the balls to show up and ride and put his money where his mouth is. Even sled Denny has more meaningful posts than you. So how bout you head down to Canadian Tire and throw some new plugs in your ride and try and contribute and make Snowandmud great again.

Well since nuts are the subject I’d like to join in the fun.
Haha funny you mentioned my balls. I recently started taking testosterone and the doc warned me that it might cause jewel shrinkage. I laughed and said “perfect.” It was cool info cuz my jewels are like 7” long and all droopy and hangy. Quite a sight to see I must say.

So anyway, the latest measurements is 4” hangy jewel measurement so I’m close to average jewel length. 20 yrs old-2”, 40 years old-4”, 50 years old-5”. This a Kanedog public information jewel notice. Before and after pics available upon request.

NoBrakes! · Dec 20, 2019

we already saw the batwing pic lol

niner · Dec 20, 2019

JMCX said:
Right path if wheelies are your thing. I guess you could drop the rear suspension mount to the lower hole to compensate.

Yes need to drop to the rear of the skid also. Flotation is my thing. Makes a big difference to get the sled out of the snow.

kanedog · Dec 20, 2019

niner said:
Yes need to drop to the rear of the skid also. Flotation is my thing. Makes a big difference to get the sled out of the snow.

What is the relationship of flotation vs horsepower?
Just smoked a fatty and clutch/sled brain is currently active.

Thx for the shout-out by saying I contribute to the site and I had the nutz to show up, ride and put my money where my mouth is. It was enjoyable hangin’ out.

Shitfly · Dec 23, 2019

Noticed I have the same issue, mentioned it to the dealership and seeing others, also noticed there is contact of the rail tip and the inner track clips when compressed. Showing signs of both issues with around 12hrs on the sled. Will definitely be swapping out the spring to the appropriate rider weight specs.. may end up having to do a revalve of the shock too I’m thinking. Waiting on what the dealership says about fixing the track clip issue, mine looked minor to the other one I saw there!

NoBrakes! · Dec 23, 2019

as long as yours isn't as bad as the next guys....

snochuk · Dec 23, 2019

****fly said:
Noticed I have the same issue, mentioned it to the dealership and seeing others, also noticed there is contact of the rail tip and the inner track clips when compressed. Showing signs of both issues with around 12hrs on the sled. Will definitely be swapping out the spring to the appropriate rider weight specs.. may end up having to do a revalve of the shock too I’m thinking. Waiting on what the dealership says about fixing the track clip issue, mine looked minor to the other one I saw there!

You need to install the T-nut as shown in post #1 to stop the gouging from the factory bolt.
Never seen tip wear on the rail that deep before.
I kept my front shock at 75# last year until it was worked on.The rails crack at the first rivet back and on top of the rail from the front of the rail. About a half inch back of the big gouge - keep an eye on that area.
I would be asking for a new rail.

Kibbels · Dec 23, 2019

****fly said:
Noticed I have the same issue, mentioned it to the dealership and seeing others, also noticed there is contact of the rail tip and the inner track clips when compressed. Showing signs of both issues with around 12hrs on the sled. Will definitely be swapping out the spring to the appropriate rider weight specs.. may end up having to do a revalve of the shock too I’m thinking. Waiting on what the dealership says about fixing the track clip issue, mine looked minor to the other one I saw there!

You have to get it revalved... just adding spring for preload is a mere bandaid. If you’re 140lbs soaking wet adding spring will be fine... and you will also see the stock spring rubs canister ALL the time. Cat junk... Fox valved shocks as per cat engineers and supplied without out spring or bushings. So you don’t get a Fox spring and you get Chinese bushings!!

powwow · Dec 23, 2019

Checked over my Mountain cat tonight. Same marks on the rail. Fts 65lbs.

mountianguy · Jan 1, 2020

snochuk said:
You need to install the T-nut as shown in post #1 to stop the gouging from the factory bolt.
Never seen tip wear on the rail that deep before.
I kept my front shock at 75# last year until it was worked on.The rails crack at the first rivet back and on top of the rail from the front of the rail. About a half inch back of the big gouge - keep an eye on that area.
I would be asking for a new rail.

Why do you even need the top bolt it really doesn't appear to do much, maybe helps holds the strap from moving side to side on the top? It could be helping hold the limiter strap together taking some of the load off the lower bolt?

LMLCHEVY · Jan 1, 2020

Mine still moves side to side with the bolt. I’m thinking delete and zip tie.

Dawizman · Jan 1, 2020

LMLCHEVY said:
Mine still moves side to side with the bolt. I’m thinking delete and zip tie.

Zip tie to replace the strap?

rknight111 · Jan 1, 2020

If these are all factory sleds that are not modified I would take to the dealer rather than drilling and changing things. It looks like a common wear issue that is most likely already known my the manufacturer, if not is should be and they would look after it.

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