SlimeR HDC Alpha

E-Zmoke · Dec 17, 2020

Ended up not putting the timing bump in yet for various reasons. Sled pulled 8100 with 3.3grams over stock with the head and y pipe. Very strong on the bottom and mid range. Noticeable difference in power. No deT codes or hiccups. Will probably have to add a bit more weight as the sled was still in break in mode for most of the day. Foot of fresh, and finally got her out of break in mode now after yesterday’s ride. Made some adjustments to the suspension and much happier with the sled now. Going to be a great season.

Dawizman · Dec 17, 2020

E-Zmoke said:
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201217/47059dea720c5344f5bee6b0f7238dc5.jpg
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201217/130952c3a063a2eebcd683c797680f50.jpg

Ended up not putting the timing bump in yet for various reasons. Sled pulled 8100 with 3.3grams over stock with the head and y pipe. Very strong on the bottom and mid range. Noticeable difference in power. No deT codes or hiccups. Will probably have to add a bit more weight as the sled was still in break in mode for most of the day. Foot of fresh, and finally got her out of break in mode now after yesterday’s ride. Made some adjustments to the suspension and much happier with the sled now. Going to be a great season.

Sweet!

Curious, what did you change in the suspension?

I have never really been able to see much of a difference with minor suspension changes on a sled. It's been obvious when something is too weak such as the front track shock on the 20 Hardcore, or when a fox float is low.

I'm always in favor of free improvements though if you found something that works good.

E-Zmoke · Dec 17, 2020

Dawizman said:
Sweet!

Curious, what did you change in the suspension?

I have never really been able to see much of a difference with minor suspension changes on a sled. It's been obvious when something is too weak such as the front track shock on the 20 Hardcore, or when a fox float is low.

I'm always in favor of free improvements though if you found something that works good.

Last year I sent my shocks in for a re-valve and new spring on the FTS. The Fox 125lbs spring was put on. I didn’t get very much ride time on it but I felt the sled was trenching and wheeling a lot in the short time I was riding it.

I simply just backed the FTS spring off all the way and then went 3 turns tight from nut contact which was about 15-20 turns looser from where it was set and it made a HUGE difference in skid weight transfer which stopped the trenching. It handles much better now. I also set all of my suspension sag up properly which involved giving the front shocks a considerable amount more pre load on the springs. I think I went about 10 turns tighter from the factory settings and I also added more preload to the rear spring.

tex78 · Dec 17, 2020

E-Zmoke said:
Last year I sent my shocks in for a re-valve and new spring on the FTS. The Fox 125lbs spring was put on. I didn’t get very much ride time on it but I felt the sled was trenching and wheeling a lot in the short time I was riding it.

I simply just backed the FTS spring off all the way and then went 3 turns tight from nut contact which was about 15-20 turns looser from where it was set and it made a HUGE difference in skid weight transfer which stopped the trenching. It handles much better now. I also set all of my suspension sag up properly which involved giving the front shocks a considerable amount more pre load on the springs. I think I went about 10 turns tighter from the factory settings and I also added more preload to the rear spring.

I think you need to ride my sled and set it up for me

I have a feeling that's some of my issue with riding it, and used to it

E-Zmoke · Dec 26, 2020

Could not be happier with this setup! Got SlimeR out again just before Xmas on a 3ft blower pow day. Huge gains in the mid range with the PowderFreaks head, Y pipe and Thing Can combo. Sled was running really good, pulls hard, and just keep pulling. Clutching is dialed, shocks are dialed, going to add a bit more preload on the RTS shock to try and keep the front end down a little bit more yet, but such a fun sled to ride, had a stock 850 expert in our crew and was a pretty noticeable difference between the two sleds power wise. Approx 10hrs on her now and she’s really coming to life, sled gets stronger and stronger every time I ride it. It is still running a little bit rich from break in mode but hoping she leans out a bit more yet as the hours stack up, or I’ll be looking for more ways to lean it out a bit more, might end up adding that timing key after a few more rides. I was worried it was going to be a little lean / hot with the head/y pipe combo coming out of break in mode but haven’t hit any deT codes and temps have been good so far. I’ll give her a couple more rides and report back.

E-Zmoke · Dec 26, 2020

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJSCCmEhYrZ/?igshid=1r77yf4bgikpv

E-Zmoke · Jan 10, 2021

Carnage on the front today...stripped the threads on the rail where the front shock bolt hole is. Bolt was torqued to spec with red locktite. Appears that the stock bushing is binding against the shock bolt putting stress on the threads...just like the rear bolts in the rear arm. Going to drill it straight through and make a double bushing that spins with a long through bolt with a nylock nut and washers. Thanks to Tex for the idea

Riding this pogo stick back out 30 miles with no front shock was a real treat cowboy style, clipped it a couple times but no major damage to the tip in the process so that was a win

tex78 · Jan 10, 2021

Lmfao, that's how I knew there was something up, the pogo on the trail

Didn't get too far from jumping outa the bush and I'm like there's something not right

Found same thing, took the shock out so it didn't rub the track to death

And sat on the rear tip of the seat

LOL sure glad I have a e start sled, seats longer lol

Firecatman · Jan 18, 2021

E-Zmoke said:
Carnage on the front today...stripped the threads on the rail where the front shock bolt hole is. Bolt was torqued to spec with red locktite. Appears that the stock bushing is binding against the shock bolt putting stress on the threads...just like the rear bolts in the rear arm. Going to drill it straight through and make a double bushing that spins with a long through bolt with a nylock nut and washers. Thanks to Tex for the idea

Riding this pogo stick back out 30 miles with no front shock was a real treat cowboy style, clipped it a couple times but no major damage to the tip in the process so that was a win

Luckily in the shop, but just pulled the threads out of mine at ~1400 miles, there's a guy out of Vermillion making a new bushing for this, have one coming my way so we'll see if that works any better. Not a huge fan of drilling a hole through the rail in that spot.

What spring are you running on that shock? And still stock valving? Have the progressive rate one on mine that everyone recommends and still think it's not quite right.

E-Zmoke · Jan 18, 2021

Yeah I ended up ordering that same bushing. It showed up on Friday. Haven’t had time to put it in and back together yet. I’m running the Fox spring that comes on the Fox version of the FOX 1.5 ZERO QS3’s with Nextech Valving.

ippielb · Jan 21, 2021

E-Zmoke said:
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191123/27da1c9ba4b238d1fc0f43e5b5567697.jpg //uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191123/046b279355f313e7831505650f232b47.jpg //uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191123/eae681d965d540418ae6807312b9e9a8.jpg //uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191123/5046c74b861374e13b0638e1d5e2951a.jpg

Any adverse effects to this? I'm trying to save weight and open my alpha up... I bought a new hood and have to silicone the airbox again.

LMLCHEVY · Jan 22, 2021

Firecatman said:
Luckily in the shop, but just pulled the threads out of mine at ~1400 miles, there's a guy out of Vermillion making a new bushing for this, have one coming my way so we'll see if that works any better. Not a huge fan of drilling a hole through the rail in that spot.

https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn....=10e9406702513f1f4dfa9d6b27c17c59&oe=602964B4

What spring are you running on that shock? And still stock valving? Have the progressive rate one on mine that everyone recommends and still think it's not quite right.

Who is this guy?

tex78 · Jan 22, 2021

Firecatman said:
Luckily in the shop, but just pulled the threads out of mine at ~1400 miles, there's a guy out of Vermillion making a new bushing for this, have one coming my way so we'll see if that works any better. Not a huge fan of drilling a hole through the rail in that spot.

https://scontent.fyyc3-1.fna.fbcdn....=10e9406702513f1f4dfa9d6b27c17c59&oe=602964B4

What spring are you running on that shock? And still stock valving? Have the progressive rate one on mine that everyone recommends and still think it's not quite right.

I've put on 700 km since I Drilled it and had chit mogals to ride over new years and the last few rides

I've Pounded it hard on purpose to see what would happen

Still tight and not cracked

Told the dealer I'm going to run this a while, might do the rest of the year

Might wait till warranty close to up

See how it goes

ippielb · Jan 22, 2021

Slamnek said:
My 18 mountain cat was screaming hard at 8100-8200 before the latest cat flash and now it’s a dog at 7900-8000. I’m hoping the pefi flash gets me back to that 8100-8200 range.

My sled did the exact same thing as yours. Ran great before the flash and after it was weak.

I sent my ECU to Brent Linderman at Arctic Edge. Hillcrest Alberta. I also put a jaws pipe and his clutching. Added 5g of weight to primary and his primary spring. I was hitting 8,450 at 6,700ft in a heavy climb and i was pedaling it.

So i gotta add more weight again.

06yamahaapex · Jan 23, 2021

LMLCHEVY said:
Who is this guy?

Daylin Borysiuk 780 581 0796 . Is the dude who makes the bushing. I have one. It’s a sweet design. It keeps the shock from rubbing on the bolt which in turn loosens it. Bushing is a bit longer. Has a groove to hold grease and o rings to keep grease in there. Well worth the money.

tex78 · Jan 23, 2021

06yamahaapex said:
Daylin Borysiuk 780 581 0796 . Is the dude who makes the bushing. I have one. It’s a sweet design. It keeps the shock from rubbing on the bolt which in turn loosens it. Bushing is a bit longer. Has a groove to hold grease and o rings to keep grease in there. Well worth the money.

I still think a double bushing is a better idea

tex78 · Jan 23, 2021

Like this that I made

06yamahaapex · Jan 23, 2021

tex78 said:
Like this that I made View attachment 232055

Still need to keep the shock off the bolt. That wouldn’t do er.

tex78 · Jan 23, 2021

06yamahaapex said:
Still need to keep the shock off the bolt. That wouldn’t do er.

But it would keep the bushing from grabbing the bolt and backing it off when it cycles

Where the bushing with fingers to grab the rail would help, but still possible to turn

Throttle block for example, once it turns some it just turns and groves it

06yamahaapex · Jan 23, 2021

tex78 said:
But it would keep the bushing from grabbing the bolt and backing it off when it cycles

Where the bushing with fingers to grab the rail would help, but still possible to turn

Throttle block for example, once it turns some it just turns and groves it

You still run the risk of it binding. The other design can bind and still not loosen.

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